Category: Travel

Mile 906.7 Mammoth Lakes, CA to mile 1092.3 Echo Lake, CA

3 July 2015

Mile 906.7 Mammoth Lakes, CA to mile 1092.3 Echo Lake, CA

Day: 45
An unintended nero.
Day Forty-five: 16 June 2015
Start: HM 906.7
End: HM 909 + 7.8 JMT Shadow Lake
GPS Point: 37.692111, -119.134978
Day Total: 10.1 miles
Water at mile Mammoth Lakes, mile 909 + 7.8 JMT Shadow Lake
We unintentionally took a nero today. We should have been able to hit the trail by early afternoon but the three bus exchanges, an overcrowded lunch diner, and a bit of trail wandering, our start was delayed until after 4 PM. And more like 5 PM once we finished checking out Devil’s Postpile, an awesome geological point of interest for basalt columns.
This morning was great! After the late night doing chores and laundry, we all slept in. Then we headed to the Looney Bean (yes, the same shop we hung out at in Bishop) for our computer and Internet desires and breakfast needs. After hanging out, we did a few last minute stops at the gear shop, RiteAid, and Post Office, before heading back to the Motel 6 to pack up and check out.
I learned that Silver noted me in his blog. Score! You can check out his adventures at: http://ryanonthepct.com. I am noted under day 36.
Before really setting off, we took a stop at Devil’s Postpile. It is the site of basalt columns that formed perfect hexagonal pillars from the way the basalt fractured. Pretty neat stuff! After that we really hit the trail. Hiked ten miles and are camped by Shadow Lake. We decided to do the JMT Alternate in place of the PCT. The PCT climbs and stays high with views, the JMT follows the adjacent lakes with more up and down climbs.
Camped at Shadow Lake. Super tired.
Silver likely ahead.
Day: 46
Adaptability on the trail.
Day Forty-six: 17 June 2015
Start: HM 909 + 7.8 JMT
End: HM 942.5 Tuolumne Campground
GPS Point: 37.874258, -119.356879
Day Total: 26 miles
Water at mile 926 stream, mile 931.7 stream, mile 942.5 Tuolumne Meadows General Store
The JMT alternate we took replaced 13.9 PCT miles with 14.2 JMT miles. The JMT follows the lakes and rivers and has more ups and downs than the PCT. The PCT, I am told, stays up on a ridge and never really gives good views of the lakes. I am glad we took the JMT.
I met a nice man named Turtle this morning. Also saw Tank (Warrior Hike – Eric Sorensen) at lunch. He was stopped at the lake just passed Donahue Pass. I didn’t realize this before, but his son, Yardsale, who just got off after a bear got into his tent in Yosemite Valley while he occupied the space, had been hiking with him. I thought Tank had only been with the Warrior Hike group. I also met Horn Buckle at the same lunch spot. Tonight we are camped with Par Three, Redwood, and Critter. With Par Three’s sister, Hannah.
Garnet Lake and Thousand Island Lake were beautiful! I can’t believe we wouldn’t even have seen them had we been on the PCT. There was compromise though. The mosquitoes were absolutely dreadful last night. We had a fire for smoke and they attacked the moment we put it out. I am becoming an itchy mess.
After crossing over Donahue Pass, I kept seeing heaps of people. We are running into the next batch of hikers in front of us. Though I am sure there are plenty more further along in front still. Today was also a surprisingly warm day. I have been thinking about the upcoming weather in NorCal and I am not looking forward to hot days again.
Random side note, there have been an extraordinary amount of yellow belly marmots today. I also learned the marmots in this area are the yellow belly ones, versus the other varieties.
This is all out of order, but today was a bit of a fail. The store and grill in Tuolumne Meadows closed at 5 PM. I was the first of our group to arrive, and that was right at 5 PM. Somehow we were all able to get our packages despite the PO closing at 4 PM. The staff were stocking the store and organizing boxes so were still around. I can’t believe we missed everything. Across three boxes for various amounts of days, we have S&M set up to go straight to Echo Lake and home. Endless, Boone, and I can make it to Sonora Pass to resupply at North Kennedy Meadows Resort. We maybe should have accepted a late start tomorrow so Boone could resupply fully and we all go through to Echo Lakes, but no matter now.
Tonight we finished Call of the Wild. We will start a new book tomorrow. While hanging out in front of the store/PO/grill, we met Three Par. He let us crash his camp site with his other two PCT friends and sister. His sister is visiting and driving them around. They’ve had 40 zeros so far. Impressive. I can’t imagine that many days off, especially considering this is only day 46 for me. That would be almost equal on trail as off.
Day: 47
Aggressive mosquitoes!
Day Forty-seven: 18 June 2015
Start: HM 942.5
End: HM 968.4 Smedberg Lake
GPS Point: 38.012152, -119.485834
Day Total: 25.9 miles
Water at mile 942.5 Tuolumne Meadows General Store, 956.5 Return Creek, 963 Wilson Creek, 968.4 Smedberg Lake
This morning I met Shutterbug, the brother of Daydreamer, who I met in Tehachapi. Shutterbug is joining Daydreamer from Tuolumne to Tahoe. Also met Beer Goddess and Hawaii. There were two section hikers, Custer and April Showers, from two towns over from Endless in Massachusetts. Pretty cool coincidence.
Today I had an 8:15 AM start. I saw Boone leaving when I woke up. Everyone else already gone. I truly didn’t mean to leave so late. I knew we wanted thirty miles today. I have gotten worse at waking up in the morning lately. I caught up to everyone and we ate lunch around mile 956 at Return Creek. It was a short reprieve from the mosquitoes, which were on a mission today. I seriously felt overwhelmed by their ceaseless attempts to bite every available surface area of my body.
S&M’s foot was hurting today. Endless took a 4 mile round trip detour after lunch. And Boone and I waited at the pass to see how delayed we might be. Despite being at the day’s highest elevation and in direct wind contact, the mosquitoes were just as tireless on the pass.
We are camped by Smedberg Lake. Mosquitoes are EVERYWHERE! Ahhhhh!!! They are everywhere! Seriously. I wanted to swim but the bugs were so bad I just washed my legs. I am going crazy. After sitting directly in the smoke of a small fire we built, covering myself in bug spray, and putting on every clothing item available, I was still being swarmed.
Tonight we started reading a new book, My First Summer in the Sierras by John Muir.
Day: 48
Mosquito hell!
Day Forty-eight: 18 June 2015
Start: HM 968.4
End: HM 1002.8 campsite after creek
GPS Point: 38.227706, -119.580908
Day Total: 34.4 miles
Water at mile 968.4 Smedberg Lake, mile 979 Rancheria Creek, mile 987 pond near Bond Pass, mile 993 Falls Creek, 1001 creek near ponds, mile 1002.4 creek
Today was my biggest mileage day yet! I was upset that I didn’t hit the trail until 7:30 AM. Endless and I hiked until just before 9 PM. We wanted to hit a certain point, and we did it. Though next time I will definitely want to start earlier in the morning. Night hiking really isn’t my thing. Though by night hiking I mean we arrived by 9 PM. Haha.
I met Sundown and Nips today. There was also an old man in a blue shirt who was not on the PCT. He made a comment about my bear canister lashed onto my pack. He seemed nice. Just before stopping for lunch, while making a last hard push up a big climb, I met Cayman. She is from Germany but now lives in the Cayman Islands.
The mosquitoes are OBNOXIOUS! I want to kill all mosquitoes. What purpose do they serve? I was covered in bug spray but they bit anyways. I went through an entire bottle of bug spray in the last three days. I am covered in bites and super itchy. This is very miserable. I put my tent up because they are still active despite being dark and cold. I am going crazy.
Today reminded me of Colorado. All the ups and downs. It was beautiful. Despite the miserable state of the mosquito infestation, the trail here is fantastic! I also saw so many PCTers I’ve never met before. I am beginning to question if we are running into people in front of us or just meeting new people in general. So many new faces.
Boone and S&M never showed up to camp tonight. Boone had mentioned stopping at Dorothy Lake, 5 miles back. S&M I haven’t seen since I passed her around 10:30 AM this morning. I know they will make North Kennedy Meadows tomorrow, but I hope they are close.
At lunch, after the climb over the pass, I found Endless and we went swimming. The lake was so nice and warm. It was beautiful out!
Day: 49
Kennedy Meadows again…
Day Forty-nine: 19 June 2015
Start: HM 1002.8
End: HM 1026.2 near stream
GPS Point: 38.411616, -119.666353
Day Total: 23.4 miles
Water at mile 1016.3 Sardine Creek, mile 1026 stream
I saw S&M this morning! She camped maybe 2/10 mile before us at the trail junction after the wooden bridge. She is such a badass! She never saw Boone, so I can only assume he camped at 998 like he said. Endless had hit the trail already and I was trying to do all my packing without getting out of the bug net, when S&M suddenly walked up off the trail. She amazes me in her perseverance.
I felt really good today. I had very little food and knew I needed to pound out as many miles as fast as possible while my food energy lasted. All told, I covered just under 16 miles in five hours. Pretty good considering the amount of photos I stopped for.
Sonora Pass was absolutely stunning. Phenomenal views! One of my favorite passes next to Kearsarge Pass. AND! much to my delight, there were no mosquitoes on the pass!!! I didn’t even realize how beaten they were making me feel until I felt the reprieve of their absence.
Endless and I made it to Sonora Pass and caught ride with Ken, a nice man from Livermore, CA, to North Kennedy Meadows Resort. He went extensively into fusion power on the ride in. Interesting fellow. The road down from Sonora Pass was truly stunning. Also would have been a dreadful walk. So glad we got a ride! We went straight to lunch at the resort. Chili cheese burger with fries! So delicious! My appetite is becoming bottomless at town stops.
Met Johnny Walker and Rain Gear at the resort. They were cool. Rain Gear was going through his resupply box and tossed out a lot of delicious food. Johnny Walker completely resupplied off the leftovers and then handed food out to us. There was also this really wonderful old man sitting in a chair near us. He must have been about 85. The epitome of a sweet old man. He was watching our group as we dumped our packs out and went through food to repack, talk gear and resupply strategy, and tell trail stories. Sometimes he would ask questions about gear or how we cooked. He was taking it all in. Then a woman came over at some point to talk to him. She seemed genuinely worried he might try to take off for the trail with us. And he told her that he had left that morning to go take a nap but ended up in that chair, where he had been all day, for several naps and our loitering. So cute. I wanted to talk to him but he was gone by the time I actually had things wrapped up to where I could sit and engage. Missed opportunity.
I mailed home my canister from North KM. They only charged $15. I can’t believe that I would possibly have gotten a box, made it to a post office, and mailed it for much cheaper, not including the convenience of them doing everything for me. North KM was pretty awesome. I was expecting the setup to be similar to Tuolumne, but it was so much better. Though my three day resupply consisted almost solely of sugar: Oreos, chocolate donuts, fruit snacks, jerky strips, cheese sticks, Snickers bars, Pop Tarts, etc. They had a limited supply but fairly reasonable prices. I ate a giant waffle cone of soft serve ice cream twist, chocolate covered pretzels, and a cold Gatorade. Yummmm.
S&M, Endless, and I were full and happy. We decided to head back to the trail. While leaving, we finally saw Boone. His leg apparently cramped up hard the day before. He hadn’t even made it to mile 989 last night. He said he would camp close to the trailhead that night and then catch up to us.
We caught an RV hitch for the ride back to the trail. They were a young couple with two girls: Paige Sonora and Elliot. Paige’s birthday is two days after mine! They were really awesome and the girls were super sweet. What a lucky hitch. They took us all the way to the trailhead.
We made it on trail around 5:45 PM. We walked eight miles and camped near a stream. The trail wasn’t the best. The snow was melting and covering everything in mud, and we post holed on soft snow. Tomorrow will be a big day.
The meadow was super beautiful! I can’t write anymore. I need rest now. Exhausted.
Day: 50
Father’s Day and summer solstice.
Day Fifty: 21 June 2015
Start: HM 1026.2
End: HM 1070.2 campsite
GPS Point: 38.649263, -119.957482
Day Total: 44 miles
Water at mile …today was so long and I was so tired at the end that I failed to write down water sources.
Today was the most beautiful day. Seriously. There was great weather, lots of people, and stunning scenery. The geology of this area is incredible. I cannot describe why, but I thought a lot about Colorado and my time on the Colorado Trail. I spent 17 hours on trail today. That includes all my breaks, lunch, supper, toilet stops, etc., but still a sizable day. We arrived as a group to our stopping point just before midnight. I have never felt so exhausted. As fast as possible we laid out our stuff and went to bed. I think I ate a last round of desserts first and we chatted quickly about our plans the next day. Mostly I went straight to sleep.
Met a cool old man named Colonel something with his dog, Bob Dylan. He is a Nobo who flopped the Sierra section and was on his way south now. He said he was on day 102 or something. Having a dog would be so awesome, but definitely much slower. When they first came up on me, Bob ran straight at me as fast as he could. I think he smelled the bear that Endless saw at the same creek crossing and thought I might be it. He stopped just as he got to me and looked instantly shamed. Colonel scolded him and Bob spent our entire ten minute conversation nuzzling my hand. So adorable! And despite running at me, very well behaved. I never worry about dogs that I meet on the trail. It is rare that an owner is not attached and dogs deserve to run free. I was glad for the interaction. It reminded me of meeting my friend Chris and his dog Sapper on the CT. You can tell a lot about a person by the relationship with their dog.
There was a fire closure today. Last night we could see the smoke as we came down off the north side of Sonora Pass. We slowly hiked towards the billowing smoke clouds all day. At our lunch point, mile 24, we were at the Ebbetts Pass area where it crosses Hwy 4. When I hit the road crossing, there was a hand written note saying the trail ahead had a mandatory closure due to the fire. It gave information for getting a ride around the closure. We talked to a small group of people who were leaving from an overnight trip in that direction. They lead us to believe the fire was still a ways off and we could easily make it through. Since no officials were around and the only precaution was a handwritten note, we decided to hike through it. And I am glad we did for the sheer beauty of that portion of the trail. We did hike right towards the fire for a long time. It felt like we were heading straight at it. Eventually we turned to the north away from the burning forest, but there was a moment when I could see the smoke curling over the ridge just above me and I wondered if we had made a mistake hiking through. Instead, we were rewarded with a horridly beautiful scene later that night. Around 11 PM, after the Lost Lakes spur road, where the topo map suggests some structures called The Nipples, we could see down the valley back to the fire. The bright orange of the fire front creating a line of burning trees. It was like looking down at Mordor from afar. Forest fires are no joking matter, but there is something captivating by it all the same. Mesmerizing. It was beautiful and sad. The fire became a really big deal (link to a story here: http://www.kolotv.com/news/californianews/headlines/Smoke-Plume-Near-Douglas-County-From-Washington-Fire-308745881.html?device=phone&c=y). By the next morning, the fire had gotten over the valley and hikers were turning back from smokiness. I heard of one girl with a photo where the flames reflected on her sunglasses. Crazy!
While going through this last section I met a guy named Bear Snack. He gave me a Starburst. Yum!
So today we hiked 44 miles! Holy shit. We are bad asses! Today was incredible. I seriously have begun to understand challenging myself. Also very glad we hiked from supper to camp as a group. Spirits are definitely lowered when hiking alone, in the dark, for so many miles, when your body wants to lie down and recuperate.
There was crazy wind today. It was trying to blow us off the mountain. So it turned out to be a good thing that we missed the Spring Solstice and never hiked naked. But I sort of wish we had at least one hour of naked hiking time.
This morning I saw my first Sobo hiker. Endless talked to him; I only saw him breeze past on the trail. We are approaching the front of the herd and catching the opposite traveling folk. It is awesome to meet all these new people.
My feet are numb. It’s past midnight and cold. We’re are all snuggled up cowboy camping. Foot rub and bed.
Day: 51
Close call on the fire closure.
Day Fifty-one: 22 June 2015
Start: HM 1070.2
End: HM 1092.3 Echo Lakes/South Lake Tahoe, CA
GPS Point: 38.834584, -120.043836
Day Total: 22.1 miles
Water at mile 1072.4 creek, mile South Lake Tahoe
We had 22 miles into Echo Lakes. We knew that the PO closed at 3 PM. We were on a mission. But after the long day yesterday, none of us had much go power. A short eight miles after hitting the trail, we passed into the Carson Pass trailhead. There were many day hikers and cyclists for a five day race there. The best part was the presence of rangers, who had trail magic for us! Cold soda and cookies!! There was a short supply of fruit too. What a surprise! We haven’t had trail magic in ages!
We stopped at mile 1084.7 for lunch. S&M somehow woke super early to get on trail this morning before I even woke up. She is incredible! I could barely wake up this morning. The three is us ate and continued our plight. I called the PO to confirm that they were willing to let us have our packages later as long as the store was still open.
I met Tom Tit and Bush Tit at the Carson Pass TH. There was a guy named Perogi, or something close, first thing this morning. I met Houdini at the Motel 6, he had been with Boone since before North Kennedy Meadows. There were also two ladies on day hike near Shadows Lake before you reach the Echo Lake area. They were super impressed by my hiking the PCT. One of them said she would write about me in her blog, but I haven’t been able to find it online. She has a blog about women getting out into the outdoors. Then there were two Tahoe Rim Trail hikers that we crossed paths with several times today.
We made it into the Echo Lakes Chalet right at 4 PM. They let us pick up our boxes late. We got two lucky hitches and made it into South Lake Tahoe. The first ride from Echo Lakes to a road was in the back of truck. Then an ex-New Zealander and his dog, Snoop, gave us a ride from that road to Echo Lakes. Pretty cool guy. The generosity of people is still incredible!
S&M decided she would leave from SLT for her home in Auburn. Her best friend Kat just happened to be off trail at the same time and came to pick her up. S&M started the PCT with Kat, or Whiskey Nips, but, to my fortune, they split after Wrightwood to hike at different paces. Whiskey Nips is several hundred miles behind us. S&M and Whiskey Nips have a blog together: https://hellawalking.wordpress.com. Whiskey Nips has an unmatched skill in her blog posts. I definitely recommend their blog.
I ended up at Motel 6 with Endless.
We learned that the fire closure is now official. Boone turned up in SLT after an extensive day of multi-ride hitches and a bus ride. Lots of hikers are being forwarded to SLT from the closure. We truly lucked out in getting through that section before conditions were bad.

Mile 788.9 Bishop, CA to mile 906.7 Mammoth Lakes, CA

16 June 2015

Mile 788.9 Bishop, CA to mile 906.7 Mammoth Lakes, CA

Day: 40
More miles equals more beauty in the same day.
Day Forty: 11 June 2015
Start: HM 789.1 + 7.6 Kearsarge Pass from Onion Valley
End: HM 799.8 Woods Creek
GPS Point: 36.873630, -118.438005
Day Total: 18.3 miles
Water at mile 795.8 Dollar Lake
We were up too late last night hanging out. I woke up still tired. Tami came at 7:30 AM to give Endless, Prickly, S&M, and I a ride to the trailhead at Onion Valley. Tami’s parents were in town to give her a few days off. So wonderful of them to bring cookies and provide us transportation! Tami took a guy named Frosty to Independence from the trailhead. We saw the man, Richard, who gave us a ride two days ago. He was heading out on his lake adventure.
Heading up Kearsarge Pass, back to the PCT, and over Glenn Pass, was pretty easy. There was some snow on the north side of Glenn Pass, but going down was just fine on the hiker alternates that have been in use around the snow areas. I am feeling pretty good about the snow conditions if Glenn was supposed to be the worst of them. At the top of Kearsarge, we met a couple from Portland, Maine, named Sarge and Stump. They are pretty cool and ended up at the same camp as us tonight. We met some other PCT’ers but mostly there were tons of southbound hikers on day hikes or short trips. There was a couple on the Rae Lakes loop. It’s about 40 miles long. The Rae Lakes were absolutely stunning! I would definitely hike them again.
There was a ranger station right by the Rae Lakes. Prickly and I saw the cabin and wandered over to it. We met a ranger named Sam. Endless popped in shortly after. Sam let us see the inside of the cabin. It was pretty awesome and perfectly set up. Makes me think of tiny homes. While walking away I realized how much PCT hikers are like curios marmots. We see a cabin and wander over hoping to get food or something. Even if no one was around it would still be worth the side trip. Funny how quickly we become mooches once we have to carry around all our food supply and options.
We made it down to just shy of mile 800 at the suspension bridge and decided we were going to call it a day and camp there. Most of that decision came from Prickly and I needing a bear box and this being the only camp with one. Plus I was exhausted. All day I wasn’t feeling any energy. I am sure part of that is being fully packed with food and toting around the bear canister. The two late nights also contributed.
Our camp locale is very filled with hikers. There are at least 20 people around and some group had a big fire going. Some guys said they saw a bear earlier. Our food is safely canistered and bear boxed. Endless gave us story time again. My error from last night, he’s reading Call of the Wild, not Into the Wild. Too tired to think anymore. We are cowboy camped and S&M has her tarp setup in case it rains again. Boone and Nomad turned up at camp. Night.
Day: 41
A day of water.
Day Forty-one: 12 June 2015
Start: HM 799.8
End: HM 828.5 Grouse Meadow
GPS Point: 37.063508, -118.589125
Day Total: 28.7 miles
Water at mile 799.8 Woods Creek, mile 813.7 stream off South Kings River, mile 823.6 Glacier Creek, mile 828.5 Grouse Meadow
Last night we ended up as a sleepover in S&M’s tarp. S&M, Endless, and I were cowboy camped but had S&M’s tarp set up close by. It started raining around midnight. We huddled under quickly and were snugly safe from the rain. It was pretty nice actually. And the tarp was super warm with all of us under there. Hilarious and awesome. The only unfortunate part was that I couldn’t sleep in since they both wake up so early.
Yesterday I meant to write about my shoes feeling like I was walking on cupcakes with velvet frosting. New socks and new shoes, my feet hardly know what to do with themselves. Today my feet were repeatedly wetted during the thirty or so fords and multiple sections of drowned trail. I didn’t think about it, but it meant my feet had a slow soak all day. At camp, I was able to give some TLC to my soggy feet since normally they are too rough and dry to do anything for the callouses.
Today I saw lots of people again. Right off the bat, after crossing mile 800! I saw Tank heading my way. He had a late start from his team and didn’t think he could make it to Tuolumne in time for the next gathering. I also met Silver. He hiked with Boone and I this afternoon and is camped with us tonight. There was also a girl named Bugs. She complimented me that I am the cutest hiker she’s seen; that I am so clean. I thought it was very sweet of her. And tonight, she found S&M for us! So glad! S&M almost camped a half mile back thinking we had gone on to our original goal a few miles further.
Writing all out of order, we had another double pass day. First was a 7.7 mile uphill to Pinchot Pass. That was an easy pass. Then we had a short down to a valley before immediately climbing back up towards Mather Pass. Boone, Silver, Endless, and I ate lunch just before the pass. We never saw Prickly or S&M but continued on. I caught up with Boone just on the other side of Mather and we flew downhill. Coming into the valley was incredible! The trail hugged the cliff walls and continuously switch backed down along the water. I would like to have seen this area during a normal snow year, because I bet there would be so much water flowing everywhere! Like an intricate weaving of streams across every available surface. All the water fighting for its place in the main channel. We passed Subway and Sugar Rush, too. I am not sure how they could possibly have gotten in front of me.
Today was a day about water. I have never seen so much water not immediately attached to an ocean delta. It was beautiful. I wanted to jump in and take the fast route to the bottom. An extreme water ride! I don’t even know how to describe the way the water had a life of its own. A thriving, continuos gathering of all the water coming together, separating, and colliding again. A sparkling movement of life. Even now, we are camped at the edge of this stunning meadow. We have seen at least a dozen deer, leaping around or sauntering by. In playful bouts and races. Curiously investigating the stinky group of hiker trash. You can hear the water rushing through the main stream on the far side of the valley, but there is also the beginnings of an oxbow lake forming near our side. Water gently rushing through, calm enough for a swim. Clear enough to see the fish curiously checking us out as we filled bottles. And the mountainous backdrop. Almost too beautiful to believe.
Day: 42
A beautiful day.
Day Forty-two: 13 June 2015
Start: HM 828.5
End: HM 855.9 campsite near Piute River
GPS Point: 37.224837, -118.832346
Day Total: 27.4 miles
Water at mile 828.5 Grouse Meadow, mile 835.5 Middle Fork Kings River, mile 842.1 Sapphire Lake, mile 855.9 campsite near Piute Creek
Today was beautiful. The sky was clear and bright this morning. Prickly, S&M, and I watched a group of six deer prance around the valley. They had no fear of us, and came within 15 feet in their play. Literally deer everywhere. We had about ten miles uphill to Muir Pass. Clear skies and warm the whole way. There was a fair amount of trail hunting, waterway dodging, and snow stepping to the top. Not to mention the false summit at Helen Lake. But I knew I was finally there when I saw the stone cabin. It was really cool. Inside I met Seven and Wrong Way, a couple hiking the JMT northbound. We shared the moment, chatted a bit, and all enjoyed a snack. I knew today we were planning on big miles again so I said my goodbyes and continued on. As always, I was last out of camp this morning. I had caught up to Prickly and S&M shortly before the pass, but hadn’t caught site of Endless or Boone yet.
The lakes at the top of Muir Pass might be my favorites so far. The water was the clearest crystal in the shade of azure, as always. Today the lakes were also so calm the surrounding mountain spires reflected perfect images where not covered with a thin creaking plate of ice. It was eerily calm and so beautiful. I had the strongest urge to just jump in. The best part is that these lakes feed the hundreds of waterfalls, streams, and ground seeps that we walked up the east side of the valley as well as the ones we hiked down the north side of the valley. Incredible!
As I hiked away, down the next valley, I was searching for a good lunch stop. I filled up some water and suddenly saw Boone and Endless sitting a little ways further down by Sapphire Lake. I headed their way and saw Aloha sitting by an inlet. He apparently went into Bishop too over Bishop Pass because the Muir Valley Ranch isn’t open yet for him to stay at. I finally got to see him in his straw hat with lei around the brim. Hence why Hoots and Hot Sauce named him Aloha.
After lunch I was feeling oddly exhausted. But Boone and Endless stopped occasionally for me to catch up. This lead to my favorite moment of the day, when I scared the wits out of Endless. I have been trying to sneak up on him on several occasions, and today I finally had my perfect window of opportunity. There were several rain showers this afternoon, and I was constantly adjusting my poncho pack cover or readjusting straps to take a photo. Endless passed me right as I was putting my pack back on. I quickly caught up to him and could tell he didn’t know I was there. His headphones were in, he was singing aloud to whatever song he was jamming out to, and I matched his pace for a few minutes. I waited for the perfect moment to tap him on the shoulder with the end of my trekking pole. In an instant he went from hiking away in a good groove to jumping back and slipping onto the trail. I hadn’t intended for him to lose his footing, but I definitely won the moment at giving him a good shock of adrenaline. 🙂 Hehe.
Today was our first real river ford. Evolution Creek. Boone and Endless were waiting on the other side as I took off my shoes and socks and walked across the 20 or so feet. The middle got deep enough to my upper thighs and you could feel a solid current. In high water years, I can imagine that crossing being a formidable obstacle.
The three of us made it to our planned camp spot and called it a night. Prickly and S&M never showed up. I am guessing the afternoon rains and hail may have held them up somewhere. We were planing another big day tomorrow, I hope they can catch up. Supper was eaten in rain gear as we anticipated more rain while lightning and thunder rolled in the background. I set up my tarp as a backup shelter and the three of us are cowboy camped under a clear sky of stars. This valley has us at a completely different angle than last night. The Big Dipper easily perched above us versus not being in sight last night. The sun was also out for a good hour longer. Wonderful raveling through the different valley perspectives.
Day: 43
Challenges we give ourselves.
Day Forty-three: 14 June 2015
Start: HM 855.9
End: HM 887.2 campsite below Squaw Lake
GPS Point: 37.479865, -118.932688
Day Total: 31.3 miles
Water at mile 855.9 Piute Creek, mile 865 outlet off Heart Lake, mile 871 Bear Creek, mile 880 North Fork Mono Creek, mile 881 outlet off North Fork Mono Creek, 883 Silver Pass Creek, mile 887.2 Squaw Lake outlet
Today was a good day. It was also my biggest day for miles. And I am thoroughly worked over. We covered two passes, a big uphill, a river fording, and 31 miles of the beautiful Sierra Nevada mountains. Selden Pass. Ford at Bear Creek. A big up and down. Then forded North Fork Mono Creek. Finished up with an evening trek over Silver Pass.
The scenery today was the most varied since entering the Sierras. Steep valley cliffs, raging rivers, quiet meadows, Aspen groves, sandy hillsides with lizards, deep blue lakes, meandering river basins, lush tree meadows, and many more. As quick as I came into the Sierras, their end is coming just as fast. More beautiful, awe inspiring, and phenomenal than anything I could have imagined.
There are many people in the world, but I want to take a moment to think about the ones who enjoy challenging themselves. Not the day to day struggles like turning down the second helping of cake or taking the stairs over the elevator. I mean the people who hike 30 miles back to back, despite being exhausted, because they can. Or the 50+ year olds out-hiking people half their age. Or anyone who sets intense goals for themselves for no other purpose than to see if they can do it, and not necessarily because they are observed or evaluated. Despite all my hiking examples, there are people out there who are so stubborn, it doesn’t matter the activity, they push themselves harder, longer, and to bigger extremes than the regular masochist. These people inspire me, and I hope to be included in their ranks.
First thing today I ran into three Australians hiking together. They were very nice. They saw me coming up on them and they stepped out of my way, saying that they try to let the young, fast hikers go ahead. They cracked me up with a joke about hooking items to the packs of faster hikers to save weight a few miles. Said if the hikers move too fast they just throw rocks. Hahaha! They were a great morning interaction.
I caught up with Boone just after the Bear Creek ford. He was taking a break and said Endless has passed through shortly. We took off, caught up to Endless, and picked out a fantastic lunch spot. Actually Aloha found the swimming hole, but we were smart enough to join him. Endless was delighted at the chance for an afternoon dip. Aloha, Endless, and I all swam. Boone opted out, working on his impeccable tan lines. It was a pretty nice lunch break.
After lunch we still had 16 miles to go. I felt great the whole day until we started the last climb to Silver Pass. I was beaten by our past several days of hard miles topped with today’s mileage. We are camped just below the pass under Squaw Lake. The site was so mosquito ridden that I shamelessly hid inside my bug netting while Endless and Boone built a fire. Once they had smoke going I came out of my shelter to join the group. I am covered in bug bites. Mosquito smorgasbord. Tomorrow we only have 20 miles into Reds Meadow and Mammoth Lakes. I am excited for an easy day.
Wish I could write more but I am mentally and physically exhausted. Ready for sleep and rest.
Day: 44
Tired and excited!
Day Forty-four: 15 June 2015
Start: HM 887.2
End: HM 906.7 Reds Meadow to Mammoth Lakes
GPS Point: 37.614855, -119.074890
Day Total: 19.5 miles
Water at mile 887.2 Squaw Lake outlet, mile 895.9 stream off Duck Lake, mile 901 Deer Creek
I slept in later than the other days. Knowing we only had twenty miles felt like we were taking a nero. Boone took off right away this morning as a man on a mission to make the Post Office before it closed. Endless and I took our time more leisurely. The first ten miles seemed easy, but by lunch I could tell my energy was low from the toils of the last several days. We lunched at a river on mile 901. No lake for Endless to swim in. I somehow missed the 900 sign so made my own. After refueling, the last six miles were a breeze.
The last thing you walk through before reaching Red’s Meadow is a fire area. It was a deeply moving experience. Before lunch we were hiking through dry terrain, reminiscent of the desert. Then the trail suddenly throws you into a somewhat lush area with ancient giants. The blow down area begins immediately after switchbacks down from the giants. It should lead you into more ancient trees, but instead you see a huge span of tall, charred stumps. The tree tops missing. A strange void of land with ominous ghosts of old giants.
After reaching Red’s Meadow, Endless and I caught a bus that was supposed to take us to the main Mammoth lodge below the ski resort where we would catch an additional bus to town. Instead we had a kick ass driver who took us all the way to Mammoth Lakes. He was on his last run and heading to Mammoth Lakes regardless to drop off the bus. He told great stories about the area and let us off right by Zpizza, where we wanted to eat.
I felt extremely hungry when we reached Zpizza. Endless and I ate a Thai pizza and Greek salad. So delicious! Boone had a room for us at Motel 6 already. After a shower he joined us. Post pizza and salad face stuffing, we all went to the Mammoth Mountaineering. En route we ran into a guy named Brett. He gave rides to Boone and Endless at some point earlier on in the trail near Wrightwood. He has become a trail angel for rides at various places along the trail. He ended up offering to pick up S&M from Red’s Meadow. So glad she made it in tonight! Prickly headed to VVR for a package so I suspect she will be back with Queen Bee, Malibu, and BK now.
We saw Silver and all headed to the grocery. Mostly we were all ready for pints of ice cream, but we were productive and bought our food through Tuolumne too. Tomorrow we plan a relatively easy hiking day and will chill out during the morning to finish the rest of our town chores. On our way back to Motel 6, we saw Burgundy again. He was the night hiker from yesterday evening. Seems odd to night hike through the Sierras, but to each their own.
We just finished up laundry and it is way too late. Goodnight.

Mile 702.2 Kennedy Meadows to mile 788.9 Independence/Bishop, CA

11 June 2015

Mile 702.2 Kennedy Meadows to mile 788.9 Independence/Bishop, CA

 

Day: 34
A day of many.

Day Thirty-four: 5 June 2015
Start: HM 702.2
End: HM 728.4 flat sandy area beside trail
GPS Point: 36.30017, -118.13107
Day Total: 26.2
Water at mile 702.2 Kennedy Meadows general store, mile 716.5 South Fork Kern River at bridge

I slept so well last night. I didn’t wake once. No thirsting for water, overheating, wind whipping my tarp. I woke sharply at 5:30 AM and was ready for action. I leisurely ate breakfast, packed up, dressed, and was ready to go at 7 AM. However, I still needed to go over my maps so was sitting at the table until around 9 AM. I decided to buy the pancake breakfast, which was delicious but a terrible deal. Hot Sauce, Hoots, Ryan, and Chris all slept in. I was packed and headed to the tables before they were even out of sleeping bags. Chris’s packages never arrived, so he had quite a bit to deal with this morning once the store opened. Ryan and he were hoping they could still get on trail early enough to make 20 miles. I don’t know Hot Sauce’s agenda. And Hoots left not long after me but I never saw him again after passing him as he stopped for lunch. Tons of people left early this morning. At least twenty. And I am told the day before had even more people at the general store and most of them left yesterday. That’s a lot of people on the trail right now. I was hoping to catch Tami, but she left around 6:30 AM and I have no idea how far she made it. I ended up running into a guy from Denver, named Nomad, who was also hoping to catch his friends. We are camped together at a flat sandy area. Not an established camp so hopefully no bear issues. We suspect our friends, and all the other people we think to be in front, must be camped near the water source a few miles ahead. It was already 7:30 PM when we decided to stop. I wouldn’t have wanted to hike until nine o’clock just to catch up. That seems crazy. I am super glad I ran into Nomad though. It’s nicer to camp with people.

Anyways, there must have been at least twenty people who left before me this morning. I saw a big group come out of the teepee (including S&M), Tami and Concrete left about the same time, Rockstar, Veggie and Square, and several others I recognized. Between Nomad, who left just after Tami, and I, there are several people who should have been behind him but I never saw them. Weird. I think a big group of people are together a few miles ahead. Everything I read about the Sierras says mileage goes down, but I thought the terrain was extremely easy and the altitude not bad. I am hoping I can continue that sentiment and make up time in the Sierras.

As I headed to the trail this morning, I passed four hikers just getting in. Also saw several locals/day hikers around the Kennedy Meadows campground and chatted a bit. I started out really slow and took lots of breaks. Also snapped more photos today than I normally do for a whole town to town section. Saw Hoots briefly, passed Veggie and Square, passed about five people at the bridge, then one more immediately after the bridge, met and passed Tank who is hiking with Warrior Hike (an injured veterans program – http://warriorhike.org/about/), then passed another guy later on, and finally passed a man and woman just before Nomad and I called camp. Crazy think think so many people are scattered along the trail despite all starting about the same time.

Other interesting events from today are that I heard/witnessed a tree falling over. It was a bit off from me, but in sight’s range. Sounded like an explosion almost. It must have been higher up the hill because the fall sounded like several other trees and boulders were in the way of its trajectory. I also was sprinkled on twice, sleeted on once, and snowed on for a short time. Crazy mountain weather. I pitched my tent tonight because I don’t trust the weather. I also am sleeping with my food and wanted whatever shred of shelter was possible between a bear and myself. Walked through a meadow called, Bear Trap Meadow. It was a beautiful little meadow but very steep and there would genuinely be nowhere to go if a bear came down from above. The names of things are so ominous. Nomad’s and my friends are likely in Death Valley.

It is cold and I am sleepy. Today was long.

 

Day: 35
Cold and altitude.

Day Thirty-five: 6 June 2015
Start: HM 728.4
End: HM 750.8 Chicken Spring Lake
GPS Point: 36.454157, -118.225141
Day Total: 22.4 miles
Water at mile 730.8 spring past Death Canyon Creek, mile 741.7 Diaz Creek, mile 750.8 Chicken Spring Lake

There were lots of people on the trail today. At breaky met Cincy and Yes Dawg. Lunch encountered Geisha and Rebel Biscuit, Jazz and Rolling, the Blazing Onions (Ostrich, Mozi, Smash, and the newest addition of Blue), Snackies, and several others. At camp met Foxtrot, Cobain, Highwater and Fancy Feet, Dollywood and a guy, and then realized Concrete, Tami, S&M, and Yoda were at the camp area already (due to the snow, they were all hiding in their tents). We all have similar agendas for Mt. Whitney, so they didn’t push ahead to mile 760 like I thought. It is nice to be back with people I know. At least 16 tents here, and I likely am not counting some late arrivals.

I also really appreciate my early arrival. It started snowing and was terribly cold just as I was hiking up towards Cottonwood Pass. I thought I might have to push on if the lake was really exposed. The lake is beautiful and very protected from the winds and clouds scattering cold snow. I was able to set up my tent, change into warm clothes, and eat a leisurely supper all while the sun was still out. I filled water and washed my feet in the lake. The water slightly warmer than it is cold out. I chatted with Tami, S&M, and Prickly Pear a bit and then retired to my warm sleeping bag all before dark. It’s actually really nice. Usually I am up late doing bed chores and journaling.

I slept in later this morning. I crawled out of my bag just after 7 AM to find Nomad already packed up and gone. I left camp around 8 AM. I was basically out of water and stopped at the first source three miles away. While cheating with Cincy and Yes Dawg, I discovered Tami and the rest had camped there last night. I was very close. They thought that group was headed almost to Mt. Whitney today so they could summit tomorrow. I figured that meant they were headed for mile 760, but that’s not the case after all. I basically had decided I would only hike just over 20 miles as originally planned, hence the sleeping in, so I took a long lunch.

Lunch was at the 742 Diaz Creek. Originally I had wanted to wash my socks and soak my feet. There were pools of water, but the stream was so low that I felt bad mucking the water while people were trying to fill bottles. Nonetheless I hung out a solid two plus hours. Lots of people came through. It was nice spending time with new people. Some of the people I had passed earlier were ahead of me again. Seemed like most of us were headed for the same camp area near the lake.

Now at the end of the day, I find myself really full. The altitude and cold must be stifling my hunger some. I have barely tried to eat my day’s rations. It is crazy. I can feely dehydration too. When I drink more water I just pee it back out. Eyes barely open. Night.

 

Day: 36
Feels good to miss the rain!

Day Thirty-six: 6 June 2015
Start: HM 750.8
End: HM 766.3 + 1.1 Whitney Spur Trail at Crabtree Ranger Station
GPS Point: 36.563886, -118.349365
Day Total: 16.6 miles
Water at mile 766.3 + 1.1 Crabtree Ranger Station

Today was a short day to the base of Mt. Whitney. Good thing too! I arrived around 2 PM and the hail snow turned frozen rain downpour started around 4 PM. I already had my tent up, new bug inner netting and bathtub tied and adjusted, PJs on, toilet scoped out, ranger station and snow station investigated, supper eaten, water bottles filled, and ready to stow away for the night. I looked over upcoming map sections, organized food for tomorrow, made a list of items to take up Mt. Whitney, set my alarm for midnight, and waited for a lull so I could take my food bag to the bear box and get a last pee in. I wanted to be tucked in by 4 PM but waiting out a lull took awhile. It sure is nice being dry and warm. It would have sucked showing up late to camp, having walked through the rain. I am glad I trekked larger miles the last two days. The plan is to wake up at midnight and be on trail by 1 AM for a sunrise ascent. I am in a group with Tami, Prickly Pear, S&M, and Concrete. We were all glad to have camp setup before weather began. It seems like afternoon rains are becoming the norm. I will have to start being more diligent in the mornings so weather doesn’t prevent my mileage goals through the Sierras.

This morning I woke up at 5:30 AM and rubbed out my legs and feet. My tent had ice covering the entire inside. I tried to quickly get around, and was almost ready by 7 AM. But I decided to let things completely dry out instead and got a 7:45 AM start. I quickly found Cobain, Fancy Feet, and Highwater a few miles down trail. Highwater took off right after me and we ended up hiking together off and on until the river at mile 762. That river and the meadow it is in are stunning! The most beautiful part of the day, easily. I found Tami and Prickly Pear taking a break in a sunny grassy area and I joined them. I decided to revel in the warm of the sun by the river, despite my intentions of no long rests today. I soaked my feet numb and washed some things. Pretty wonderful! And my hunger is back finally! It must been my body adjusting to the altitude. I am trying to put more liquids in me too.

I saw a group of deer today, coming into Lower Crabtree Meadow. That is right where the Whitney Spur Trail splits off from the PCT. They were hanging out, lounging in the sun. Back at camp, there were lots of people hanging around. Some resting after the summit, others deciding if they would stay for a summit tomorrow. We were planning to go the 1.1 miles up the Whitney Spur Trail to the Crabtree Ranger Station. I am glad we did. It cuts a mile out for tomorrow, but also puts us right at the junction for the John Muir Trail heading back to the PCT at mile 767 and the Whitney Trail heading to the summit. It is basically a 4,000 ft climb over eight miles. We are planning a sunrise ascent, then return to camp for a nap, and hopefully get in another nine or so miles to set us up for Forester and Kearsarge Passes the following day.

I should write more but I am supposed to wake up in six hours and hikers have begun filing in. Some more noisily than others. I am going to try and sleep now.

 

Day: 37
Mt. Whitney (14,505 feet)!

Day Thirty-seven: 8 June 2015
Start: HM 766.3 + 1.1 Whitney Spur Trail
End: HM 774.7 Tyndall Creek
GPS Point: 36.642935, -118.387701
Day Total: 23.9 miles
Water at mile 766.3 + 1.1 Whitney Creek at Crabtree Ranger Station, mile 766.3 + 3.5 Whitney Creek at Guitar Lake

Last night Hoots found me in my tent. Hot Sauce, Ryan, and he had hiked in and were headed to Guitar Lake to camp. That put them about three miles closer to the summit. They hadn’t seen Chris and were hoping he would turn up at camp. I feel like I didn’t sleep much, but I was all energy this morning. Ready to summit a mountain. Mt. Whitney is 14,505 feet of elevation (some discrepancy says 14,508′). The highest mountain in the contiguous 48.

I woke up a bit after 12 AM and departed at 1 AM with Prickly Pear, Tami, S&M, and Concrete. It was awesome hiking in the dark. Everything looked completely different. We were hidden from the moon until coming up on Timberline Lake. It was stunning. You could see the moon shining across the entire surface. We stopped at the creek just before Guitar Lake to fill water, eat a snack, and regroup before the real climbing began. While there we saw Hoots, Ryan, and Hot Sauce start the trail. We followed suit and quickly it was Concrete, Ryan, and me leading the way. I made the top around 4:15 AM. Just over three hours for 4000 feet of climbing over 7.5 miles. It was freezing at the top, but surprisingly calm. There was frost on everything. I had zero feeling in my hands and toes. Not sure I’ve ever shivered so hard in my life! We were all bundled together like sardines waiting for the sunrise. Which didn’t occur until closer to 5:30 AM. But it was mesmerizing up there. To go from total darkness to standing on top of Mt. Whitney with possibly the best view I’ve ever seen. I can’t even describe it. The Sierras really might be the jewel of the PCT.

Once we saw the sun, we all huddled into the tiniest room of the shelter on the summit. There were eleven of us in total since Fancy Feet, Cobain, and Highwater joined us. Then two day hikers came in as well. It wasn’t exactly warm, but it did protect against the wind that picked up as the sun began to rise. I stayed up there until 6:30 AM, then booked it down. Though not so fast that I couldn’t take about one hundred photos of the peak, sunrise, our group, and the surrounding valleys and mountains as the sun began to spread its warm embrace. Since I hiked up in the dark, it was like a whole new trail going down. The lakes were almost more beautiful in the silvery moonlight. Saw heaps of people on their way up. Glad we did a sunrise hike. I was exhausted but it was worth every second. Back at base camp, I had zero energy. After shoving food in my face, I stripped off my clothes, put on my sleep socks, and napped in the full heat of the sun. Aww!

I slept hard. Concrete took off before I woke up. He is headed straight to VVR, four or so days ahead. The ladies and I relaxed and casually packed up camp. Our plan was to camp just before Forester Pass, a mere nine miles away, to set us up for the hike out of Kearsarge Pass into Onion Valley to head into Independence, CA. It was a pretty relaxed trek over. We are right by Tyndall Creek, about five miles below Forester Pass. This evening was warm and sunny. No afternoon storm like the past few days. We were joined by Boone and Endless (friends of S&M and Prickly Pear), Cat Lady, Aloha (the small backpack guy we kept running into until he delayed a few days at Big Bear to meet his wife), and for a short while Recon (he ate supper then headed out for the camp area a mile below Forester Pass).

Tonight was great. We all hung out and enjoyed good company. There was a small table and sitting area set up out of flat rocks that we chilled around. It was fun being with new people, hearing their stories, and having a change of pace. It sounds like all of us, except Aloha who is headed for Muir Trail Ranch, are headed for Kearsarge Pass into Independence. That group is planning on a hotel room in Independence then quickly getting back on trail. Tami is spending a few days with her parents. And I am still undecided. I have my packages in Independence, but would like to have time to get some chores done since they weren’t possible at Kennedy Meadows. Also, Bishop is supposed to be awesome and there is a hostel there. So I may take a nero and get out the following evening just for the hike back up Kearsarge Pass.

Today has been extremely long, I am exhausted. Goodnight.

 

Day: 38
A double pass day!

Day Thirty-eight: 9 June 2015
Start: HM 774.7
End: HM 788.5 + 7.6 Kearsarge Pass to Onion Valley with hitch to Bishop, CA
GPS Point: 37.36332, -118.39641
Day Total: 21.4 miles
Water at mile 774.7 Tyndall Creek, mile 787 Middle Vidette Meadow at Bubbs Creek

What a day! We hit Forester Pass first thing this morning. You spend four miles heading straight at this sheer rocky face, wondering what notch you are headed for. When you finally recognize the one you are destined for, the immensity of the pass suddenly becomes clear. Except Forester was a breeze. Maybe it is the ease of post Mt. Whitney climbing, but the switchbacks were short and you are at the top quickly. It is one of the most amazing views though! You can see forever to the north and south from the pass. Incredible! It is also the tallest official PCT point on the whole trail.

Speaking of which, I heard the Sierras referred to as the nine passes by two southbound JMT’ers. This is interesting because I feel like I am slowly and painstakingly putting together the reasons why mileage goes down in the Sierras. To me, the Sierras are like the CT and that’s where I thrive. I gathered that people slow down to really enjoy this section and take side trips. I’ve also heard it’s from the difficulty of the trail conditions. But what is beginning to make sense is that normally the snow conditions are significant and people would time the pass crossings to climb over only in the AM. That would definitely cut down on daily mileage abilities.

The day wasn’t finished after Forester Pass. After trekking through an incredible valley of meandering river channels, I headed straight up Kearsarge Pass too. Two passes in one day. I feel accomplished! The lakes off of Bull Frogs Trail towards Kearsarge were beautiful! I am contemplating trying to charge through bad weather predictions for tomorrow and head over the pass to camp by ow if the lakes.

I did a poor job at remembering names today. There were just so many people! Saw Snackies heading up Forester Pass. Met Grapefruit and Buttplug just before starting the switchbacks. They challenged me to point out Forster Pass, which I knew instantly. There is a pattern to where passes are placed… At the top, Ryan flew in out of nowhere. I was glad to see him. Met the two southbound JMT’ers. Spent the climb down from Forester into the valley chatting up with Aloha. Very interning guy! At lunch caught up with Cat Lady, Tami, S&M, Endless, Recon and Howley. After that began the climb to Kearsarge. Endless pointed out the Kearsarge Pinnacles to me. At the top of Kearsarge were Motown, Vortex, two others. Then got a ride from the Onion Valley trailhead with a nice man named Richard. He gave Cat Lady, Endless, and I a ride to Independence where we picked up packages, then into Bishop where he was also staying for the night. What a lucky hitch! There were surprisingly no people around. Richard is from Pasadena, CA, and he chatted us up about many things. Cool to have some things I will take mental notes on as I prepared to be living in this region of the U.S. Also learned he teaches violin in LA. I have always really liked that instrument.

In Bishop, CA for the night at Hostel California. We ate supper at Amigos Mexican restaurant. I am in a private room with Cat Lady, Tami (Townderwear, trail name we are trying out for her), Endless, and S&M. Finished the night off with milk and cookies my mom sent in my resupply box! She sent cookies, I bought the milk. Thanks Mom! So delicious! And a local Mammoth IPA beer. I threw away my holy socks and stinky, destroyed shoes! I received new shoes in my resupply, and plan to buy new socks tomorrow. My feet will be so happy! While letting food settle, I caught up on emails and such. Met Uncle Buck, S.P., and another guy. Uncle Buck skipped past the Sierras while they were receiving late snows and has just returned from two hundred NorCal miles. Tami, Endless, S&M, and I hung out late telling stories. I’ve decided Endless tells the best stories. Massachusetts native, fireman from Lynn, thick accent. Everything he says is gold.

 

Day: 39
Bishop is the shit.

Day Thirty-nine: 10 June 2015
Start: HM 788.5 + 7.6 Kearsarge Pass to Onion Valley
End: HM 788.5 + 7.6 Kearsarge Pass to Onion Valley
GPS Point: 37.36332, -118.39641
Day Total: ZERO
Water at mile Bishop, CA

This is my second zero day on the trip. I am really happy I took it here. I will skip the Mammoth one now. Bishop is an awesome town! Despite staying up late last night we all woke super early. Our room was like a sauna! Endless, Tami, S&M, and I went to the Looney Bean for coffee. I wrote some postcards and organized my town chores. It was so nice to feel like I had a calm moment to relax.

After coffee time I dumped my pack out in the hostel living room and organized everything. I have to carry the bear canister now and it makes me very unhappy. I realized not until now that my canister only fits in my empty pack and not with all my gear. Sad. Snackies hikes with his bear canister empty on the top of his pack, so I discussed some options with him and will be doing something similar. My food situation was perfect for the number of days I will hike to Mammoth in, but I had some other chores and items I was looking for. Endless and I walked to the Post Office, then checked out a few of the outfitters. I found all the things I needed! Two pairs of new socks, Tyvek ground cloth, two plastic toggles, Aquamira, and other stuff. Today was very productive! I received new shoes in my resupply box! My feet will be in spoiled heaven! I also ate so much food. Humus, blue corn chips, milk, delicious homemade cookies from my mom (Thanks again Mom!!!), and beer. Then S&M, Endless, Snackies, and I went and ate barbecue. I picked up a savory croissant from Schatz Bakery for tomorrow’s breaky. I also have yoghurt, orange juice, and a banana. I am pretty excited!

After BBQ, I found Hoots and Hot Sauce watching Jurassic Park at the hostel. Ryan was organizing food. Chris’s whereabouts still unknown. After all that eating I really wanted a nap but we needed to head to Independence. S&M, Endless, and I walked to the Vons to catch the bus. It started raining heavily while we were at the bus stop. We then had a ridiculous ride. Details and frustrations aside, there was a particularly unsavory guy who mistakenly thought everyone wanted to be privy to his every thought and opinion. Longest 42 miles ever.

Once in Independence, we went to the Courthouse Motel where they have a bunkhouse for hikers. It’s actually a pretty neat setup. There are bunks for 14 people, one bathroom, and a simple kitchen. I continued my chores with cutting the Tyvek and rigging up the bear canister on the top of my pack. S&M’s and Endless’s friends were there too. Prickly Pear, Boone, Queen Bee, Baby Killer, and Malibu. It was fun hanging out, but we eventually thought about our return to the trail tomorrow and headed to bed. S&M and I were treated to a bedtime story from Endless. He’s reading Into The Wild right now.

 

Mile 566.4 Tehachapi to mile 702.2 Kennedy Meadows

10 June 2015

Mile 566.4 Tehachapi to mile 702.2 Kennedy Meadows

Day: 28
The last desert stretch.
Day Twenty-eight: 30 May 2015
Start: HM 566.4
End: HM 585.8 on ridge saddle
GPS Point: 35.24782, -118.25135
Day Total: 19.4 miles
Water at mile Tehachapi, mile 583.3 Golden Oaks Spring
We had a slow start this morning. We packed up and headed to the bakery for breakfast and a hitch back to the trail. We were sitting with the German guy (found out his name is Scooter) when this woman walked up who Ben and I had met yesterday at the Post Office. Her name is Carol, or Lupen Fields, and her husband Chris, or Buck Snout. She had offered us a ride but we never called so thought that wouldn’t be an option. Instead, they were these genuinely nice and interested people. They had gone over to the airport looking for us and At Home must have told them we had headed for breakfast at the bakery, so they came to pick us up. What a surprise and so wonderful of them! Buck Snout has been section hiking the PCT for many years and is finally doing the last part this July. Lupen Fields is driving out a small trailer to stay in while he’s hiking and she plans to trail angel up there while they are in the area. I cannot believe how nice they are. It’s possible I will run into them if I finish the trail in early August.
Anyways, wonderful encounter, but that put us back on trail at 8:30 AM. A solid two hours later than we would normally start. That is like removing the time frame for four to six miles. It sort of threw off our whole day. We stopped around 11:30 AM for our afternoon break. We all passed out hard. We were back on trail just after 3 PM. We hit today’s water source around 6 PM. That was a slow fill up for the next 20 miles. Especially with eight of us filling from the same steady trickle. Then we hiked on another two miles or so. This last 150 miles into the Sierras is the driest section. We will only cross water about once a day, and will likely have dry camps the whole time. I am proud of our 20 miles with the way timing worked out for everything. We saw that at least twenty people came through the water spot today, so we want to stay on track for this section because we will all be vying for the same limited water supply. Also we just want to get through the back side of the herd. At least I want to. I am weary to think of hitting the main herd not until after already entering the Sierras. Camping and trail traffic will be dreadful.
Found out Slug is third guy’s name with Trout Sniffer and Boom Box. They are all from L.A. Also a couple we keep running into are Wildcat and Yellowtail. Saw some register names of people we have been getting closer to and some new names I haven’t recognized. The list only went back to mid May. Golden Oaks Spring has unfortunately become a bit of a trash heap. There are old water bottle cases that have had numerous bottles and other trash packed into them, as well as several actual bags of trash. Disgusting.
Today was beautiful. I kept wondering the whole time what was different about today. Then I realized I have seen trees today. We didn’t go through a burn area and saw what this terrain would look like uninterrupted. It was delightful and shady. Surprising what a lack of recent fire history can do for the appearance of a place, regardless how hot and dry the area is.
I am glad I slept this afternoon, but sleep is still dragging heavily at my eye lids. Last night I didn’t go to sleep early enough, so tonight I want to make sure I do.
Day: 29
Beginning the Sierras.
Day Twenty-nine: 31 May 2015
Start: HM 585.8
End: HM 608.9 Landers Meadow in Kelso Valley
GPS Point: 35.45428, -118.31433
Day Total: 23.1 miles
Water at mile 602.1 Robin Bird Spring, 608.9 Landers camp
Today was hot by 9:30 AM. Bummer that we had already decided to go all the way to the water source before stopping for siesta. We rolled in after noon and I was beat. Though I slept really well last night. It was the perfect temperature for sleeping.
At the water source I ended up setting camp by a group of guys. Three brothers: Pogo, Sticks, Shades, a speed attempt guy: Flash, Concrete, and the couple who just got married on trail: Big Spoon and Hands. Interesting to listen to others talk about their hikes so far. Saw Scooter, Trout Sniffer, Boom Box, and Slug. Second Lunch from last night’s camp spot.
Around 5 PM we took off for the next water source seven miles away. It was cool, shaded, and such a lovely jaunt. The idea was to hike past the water source, but it is in such a beautiful ponderosa and sage meadow that we stayed to camp. Landers Meadow in Kelso Valley. Stunning! There were these tiny red flowers with the sun peaking through at them. It was beautiful and awe inspiring.
Today Ben expressed his feelings on people talking about their lives prior to being on the PCT as their “real life.” He dislikes the connotation that what we are doing right now is not real life. It got me thinking and I agree. My life has been marked with many instances of “non traditional living.” All four years of college I changed residence locations and roommates each year, then I traveled in South America for ten months, my first job was working in a trailer across northeast Colorado, followed by working in an office, now I am living on the trail. My habits and routine have constantly changes depending on what is going on in my life at that time. To talk about this adventure as being something outside one’s real life suggests we are not living. I have always been a firm advocate of spending my life doing things that make me happy. I work to live, not live to work. And my play time is the most important thing I do each day. Hoots added a new dimension though, he dislikes the word vacation. Vacation harbors a reward mentality. Work hard and you get a break to do things you enjoy. Rather than making everyday enjoyable. Or putting more effort into making sure our every decision about how we spend our time is focused on always enjoying ourselves. Not just living for the weekend, or vacation time. I like that thought process. It is why I struggled so much with an office job. I need more flexibility each day with my hours to fit them around the other activities I want to do. Ideally we all get to live our careers/jobs, but realistically all work eventually feels burdensome at some point. Something my Aunt Marilyn instilled in me is to make sure I spend each day living for myself, because you never know when it is your last. That may sound cliché, but I will die with no regrets.
Day: 30
Thirty miles on day thirty!
Day Thirty: 1 June 2015
Start: HM 608.9
End: HM 637 Yellow Jacket Spring trail
GPS Point: 35.58815, -118.13272
Day Total: 30.1 miles
Water at mile 620 Willow Spring
So many things to say for today!
First, we woke around 4 AM this morning. It was still dark and chilly. I was on trail at 5 AM.  My earliest day by over an hour. I saw so many pretty sunrise views. And there was a playful warbler that fluttered about in front of me. Yellow breast, patterned black feathers on it back and wings, and a red mask across its eyes. Quickly the miles passed. Likely because my brain didn’t wake up until I had already been hiking several hours. Hoots and I split off the trail at mile 620 to head to Willow Spring. It’s a 1.4 mile trail down a drainage path for a 700 foot drop to a spring. The spring is a ground seep up into this shallow, fetid pool. Filled with snails, frantic red worms, snakes, insects, algae, and more. It smelled of decomposing matter. We filtered water from here and treated. My second opportunity to have Ben provide me with his filter. I had just under two liters when we showed up. Had I been on my own, I would have skipped that source and booked it forward to a rumored water cache ahead. But with filter, the water was fine. There was a lot of water too. I think the pipe system used to be reliable in the past, but we had to go with stagnant pool instead. It took an hour to filter water for both of us. We hiked away from the water source up a jeep road back to the PCT. Basically 1.6 miles back up the lost 700 feet. It’s a 3.2 miles alternate to 1.9 PCT miles. We hit the spring about 9:30 AM and took off an hour later. There were so many incredibly large Joshua Trees down towards the spring. Incredible!
Anyways, once back on trail, we decided we would hike at least four miles. There was a strong breeze that had picked up. At mile 623 we encountered a couple who are running a water and supply service for the next two weeks. They bring water and supplies out from Mojave that people have paid for. That way hikers know they have good water halfway across the long waterless stretch. In my favor it meant they were just posted up and were giving out cold soda! Nothing like a cold sugary drink when you’ve just hiked up a hot road to be smacked in the face with a blustery and hot trail. It was such a nice surprise! We stayed long enough to finish the drink then continued on. We weren’t going to siesta because the wind was so cold, but both of us needed rest and food. We stopped at mile 625 and took two hours. We attempted naps but the wind was genuinely cold in the shade and too strong for me to be comfortable. At one point Hoots had a bird literally fly into his back haha! I just couldn’t find comfort or rest, despite being exhausted. We decided to keep moving. From there we only had 12 miles to the next water source.
There were lots of people hiking today instead of taking afternoon shade breaks. The majority of today’s trail was on ridge line and very exposed. I doubt anyone found much comfort in rest with the wind blowing so hard. There were three major water caches today. I was not expecting any of them. Though I did greatly appreciate the bit of trail magic with cold soda. I met The Eggs, saw Concrete, Clay and Mighty Mouse, Marian, and several others. There were registers again today and it sea like we are just behind a big crowd of people. The bright of of a long day today is that weather is supposed to remain chilly and windy the next two days. So at least I don’t have to get up at 4 AM again tomorrow.
At mile 632 we started a big climb! I wasn’t ready for it. Luckily the grade was super easy. But we did climb a lot. After getting to the top, we slowly started climbing back down. At mile 637 we split off down Yellow Jacket Spring trail. It is 0.7 miles down off the PCT. Hot Sauce and Marian were already set up with camp and eating supper. I was ready to curl up and pass out. At least the wind did die down a bit, thankfully, as might set in. It will be chilly tonight.
Day: 31
We have reached the desert-Sierras cusp!
Day Thirty-one: 2 June 2015
Start: HM 637
End: HM 663.7 Joshua Tree Spring
GPS Point: 35.74218, -118.02366
Day Total: 27.7 miles
Water at mile 637 Yellow Jacket Spring, mile 651.3 Walker Pass campground, 663.7 Joshua Tree Spring
I slept in this morning! So great! I rubbed out my legs and feet. None of us got water last night and this morning revealed we needed to filter it. It was less abundant than the Willow Springs water, despite being cleaner. I waited until Hoots finished filtering then borrowed his filter to get two liters for myself. I carried his filter so he wouldn’t have to wait for me. I left camp at 7:45 AM and was back to the PCT by 8:00 AM. The plan was to go 14 miles to Walker Pass for lunch. I booked it as fast as possible. The first past was so beautiful. Then we walked a dirt road right into a burn section. I don’t know if we have had a single day this whole trail that didn’t go through some part of a burn area. Sad to think about. A few miles out from Walker Pass I crossed paths with two older guys out day hiking who gave me a mini Pay Day candy bar. So sweet of them!
I strolled into the Walker campground to find Ryan still there and two hikers who were dropped off: Starboard and Good Times Grant. They gave me a chilled orange and strawberry lemonade Powerade! Plus, I found cold Bud Light in a cooler! Best lunch and trail magic! Hot Sauce, Hoots, and I hung out there a good two hours. We decided that we should hike to the next water source. Water past Walker Pass is all supposed to be relatively abundant and easily accessible. I am so excited!
Leaving Walker Pass is like the beginning stages of what is to come in the Sierras. There were rocky granite cliffs, sheer drop off ridge line walks, living trees, and the beauty of high lands. I am so excited! I took so many pictures. I decided I needed to book to the last section too and made surprisingly good timing. All day I was moving consistently fast.
The day’s endpoint goal was Joshua Tree Spring. 1/4 mile off trail down in a river valley. The side trail is surprising steep down to it. But the water was an easy piped spring. Mosquitoes were buzzing around everywhere but a girl named Let’s Party with her dog Easy (trail name Bottoms Up) and Concrete had started a fire. The smoke was helping with the blood thirsty demons. I filled my bottles, hung out a little while, then headed back up the side trail to camp closer to trail. It is less buggy and less distance to walk with my pack in the morning. Not that I didn’t walk all the way down there with my pack. Ryan, Chris, Hot Sauce, and I are all cowboy camped on a sloping spot with Hoots and Pink Leprechaun close by. More people showed up and there are at least four or five camped down by the spring. Apparently there have been reports of bears in this area down by the spring. Interesting to start changing gears and thinking about bears and cold versus rattlers and the blazing sun.
I am sure there might have been more on my mind today, but sleep is winning.
Day: 32
One month down and a quarter way finished.
Day Thirty-two: 3 June 2015
Start: HM 663.7
End: HM 693.5 Manter Creek in Rockhouse Basin
GPS Point: 35.924663, -118.149306
Day Total: 30 miles
Water at mile 669.4 2nd crossing of Spanish Needle Creek, mile 680.8 Chimney Creek
To celebrate my one month on the PCT, and that we crossed the quarter way point, I slept in this morning. The original plan was to hike 23 or 24 miles so I knew it would be pretty relaxed. I spent a solid thirty minutes rubbing out my legs and feet, I ate my cereal for breaky, I watched others wake up and put themselves together, then I had to get up to pee so started getting around. I left camp around 7:30 AM with Chris, the last two to leave, and I took off. I knew we would likely hike the six miles for quick water then the eleven more for second water before stopping for lunch. Despite leaving last, I beat everyone there except Concrete, who legitimately left over an hour before me and hikes fast. Ryan is also a fast hiker, but I passed him while he stopped for a pre lunch snack about four miles out. It was so nice not needing to carry a lot of water weight while also having a basically empty pack. I like the short early miles while packs are full and then progressively hiking further when the pack weight diminishes.
En route to lunch, there were these biologists hanging out on their lunch stop before heading out on an onion mission. Apparently there is a rare onion out here that was last observed in the 80’s up in a steep scree area by the granite peak spires. They were hoping to find this onion then start developing a conservation plan for it. Ryan was excited to maybe find one from the trail but one of the biologists told him there is a poisonous plant that mimics the rare onion. Pretty crazy.
Lunch was great! I met a bunch of people who’s names I no longer remember. Roadrunner was one. The river was full and thriving. We took a 3-4 hour lunch break. I soaked my feet, rinsed my button up shirt, dunked my hair, tried cleaning my legs and arms a bit. So cold and so refreshing. The sun was hot and we are at a higher elevation now, but the cool breeze was perfect for hiking. I hiked without my over shirt all morning until the last stretch into lunch. Then the rest of the day after it had a good rinse, no longer crunchy with salt.
While hanging out, we were looking at the maps and thinking about our neros in Kennedy Meadows. We decided that less miles tomorrow the better. So the plan was to hike 12 more miles instead of only 5 or 6. Since we didn’t leave from lunch until 4 PM, it was a gamble if we would end up night hiking. But we arrived at Manter Creek just before 8 PM and it is down in a valley where the sun was still shining. Perfect timing! I think that’s pretty good for a thirty mile day. Hot Sauce, Hoots, Ryan, and I made a pretty solid day of hiking.
There are several people who were already in bed when we arrived. We splayed out on the nice level sand, cooked our suppers, and hung out a short while before retiring to bed ourselves. Tomorrow we have a quick 9.5 miles into the store at Kennedy Meadows. As the name suggests, we will have a breeze of flat valley hiking.
I know I am forgetting things, but that’s all for now.
Day: 33
Sweet Something.
Day Thirty-three: 4 June 2015
Start: HM 693.5
End: HM 702.2 Kennedy Meadows store
GPS Point: 36.01953, -118.12412
Day Total: 8.7 miles
Water at mile 702.2 Kennedy Meadows General Store
Today felt like a real accomplishment. We are done with the desert and beginning the Sierras. It is great to feel like one “eco zone” is finished. Next up the Sierras. We won’t need to track the water report soon, miles are supposed to go down, and all our training thus far will begin anew. Now will begin cold weather, rain possibilities, bear considerations, granite trail and rock obstacles, river fording, and whatever else. Everyone says mileage goes down in the Sierras, so I am interested to see what the differences are.
We made it to Kennedy Meadows very easily. An easy, rolling walk. We did pass by a cool abandoned cabin. A once used, long forgotten treasure. No roads leading towards or away. Maybe a hunting lodge or winter hideaway. I would like living away from everything for awhile. Town visits for supplies. Life tucked up in a simple nook of a home, a cabin in the woods.
While walking up to the general store, all the hikers started applauding. How fantastic a feeling to reach this next page in the hike and feel the acceptance, understanding, appreciation, and sense of community from all these people who have just gone through the same path as you. A different journey for each of us, but one we took together. This was a sweet something for me.
I immediately found a seat at a table on the porch and removed my shoes. Next I wandered through the store, bought Frito’s and bean dip, and inquired about all the chore options and available amenities. We arrived at 10 AM and we’re ready for burgers when the grill opened at 11 AM. I had a double cheeseburger with guacamole, lettuce, pickle, and tomato. Delicious! Also very filling. I washed everything down with beer and a giant Gatorade. After assessing my resupply box and food situation to Independence, CA, I mostly just relaxed and did a lot of nothing. Took a glorious hot shower, scrubbed my clothes in a wash tub, chilled out in the cool sun.
There were heaps of hikers at the general store! I saw some people I haven’t seen in a while, Concrete, Pink Leprechaun, S and M, Snackies, Tami, Sugar High and Subway, and others I met more recently. Magic took off yesterday and Brandon took off this morning. I also met a bunch of people, especially Cat Lady, Rock Star, Square and Veggie, and others whose names evade me. It was awesome and the right mix of town and hiker trash. I think because there is no reception or Internet, options limited to just the general store or a restaurant a couple miles away, and everyone feeling the accomplishment of the past 700 miles, the vibe is just right. I literally called my parents on a pay phone to organize some trail logistics. You can be sucked in but there is not enough to keep you on the bait. The general store is a business that hikers cater to and not vice versa. Everything here runs on generators, so when the store closes at 5 PM everything shuts down with it. No shower stalls, no water, no store or food, no power. We are left to our own devices. This is also the first place most people pick up their bear canisters. I think that humbles you a bit when you realize you now need to deal with this giant, hard canister. Weight is added for the canister and snow/bug/alpine conditions. A whole new page to this learning lesson.
Ryan bought hot dogs with a dream of a fire. We definitely did it up with style. Hot dogs and buns over the fire with a mustard and ketchup condiment mix, fried instant Idahoan mashed potato latkes, and Ben and Jerry’s for dessert. I actually had one and a half pints ice cream, the rest of my Frito’s, and an Idahoan on the side, too. Calorie loading galore! Anyways, it was a great time hanging out by the fire all evening. Fantastic company and ambitions for what’s to come. I don’t think any of us know what tomorrow will bring.
It is late now and beginning to be chilly. So much to think about and plenty to do in the AM before hitting the trail.

Mile 444.0 Acton KOA to mile 566.4 Tehachapi

29 May 2015

Mile 444.0 Acton KOA to mile 566.5 Tehachapi

Day: 22
When life comes at you.
Day Twenty-Two: 24 May 2015
Start: HM 444
End: HM 466 small campsite
GPS Point: 34.587647, -118.321819
Day Total: 22 miles
Water at mile 454 Agua Dulce, 463.2 Bear Spring
I slept in this morning. I didn’t know what the guys were thinking about for mileage so decided I would let them go and I would just catch them. I hung out with Jackson and At Home until 9AM. Right off the bat is the Golden Spike at mile 444.5. This monument is for when the PCT was declared complete in a “Golden Spike” ceremony on 6/5/1993. Sort of a dinky little structure, and a strange place to put the monument, but interesting all the same.
I busted out the 10 miles to Agua Dulce in three hours! You cross through Vasquez Rocks just as you come into town. A side note for the Trekkies out there. Vasquez Rocks is where Captain Kirk yells “Khan!” in front of the rocks after his group was exiled to a desert planet. It was really cool. Coming into the park I met two PCT’ers who were stopped to climb a rock face. Then immediately following was an older guy taking audial notes on the geology of the rock formation. Strange day.
Getting into Agua Dulce I finally had wifi! Updated a bunch of stuff and am not feeling stressed about the nuisances of life and town chores anymore. Realizing I’m 4 days behind has me itching to push ahead, but I will likely wait until Kennedy Meadows still. These are great people. And now Jackson (Lazy Bones) and Mike (Magic) are caught up too. I think they are worth hanging around for. The back crew caught up to be around us. Why shouldn’t I stay back to do the same?
I didn’t leave Agua Dulce until 3PM. Way later than desired, but I am glad to have things taken care of. Also was prepared to hike into the evening to get a decent distance in. Found Hoots, Hot Sauce, and Magic at mile 466 tucked into a tiny camp spot. They let me squeeze in. Polka Dots is apparently a few miles further up. Can’t complain about 22 miles with a late start and long afternoon break. A few miles back was water for a 15 mile stretch. A single pipe to a spring, collectable by scoop. There were five people there when I arrived. I cannot believe how many people have passed through in the last two days. Another reason I want to push forward since I want to quickly get through the main herd without being stuck among it too long. Limited water becomes a chore when ten or more people are waiting on the same spring pipe…
Finally note, my friend Tuna Helper happened to be coming through the Acton area yesterday. He’s on his way to the Mexican border to start the PCT for a speed attempt. His brother and he gave me a ride back to the KOA. Definitely a mood booster after my struggles with hitching.
Mosquitoes are out so I am tucking in for the night.
Day: 23
Hitching magic!
Day Twenty-three: 25 May 2015
Start: HM 466
End: HM 498.2 Sawmill Campground
GPS Point: 34.701733, -118.572545
Day Total: 18.6 miles
Water at mile 478.2 Casa de Luna
I finally have my hiker legs! I have been able to do a consistent 3 mph for a few days, and today I crushed 12 miles in 3.5 hours. I am feeling good. And confident that I can take off at the daily mileage I have thought possible if not hiking as a group. Though my right pinky toe is just going through the step of pushing the nail off and was very painful by the end of today. Other than that I have no troubling aches or pains.
We ended up heading to Casa de Luna in hopes that there would be food and fun for Memorial Day. Instead a big group that had stayed the last night were all heading out. It was a strange scene. Reminded me of the vortex of Mike’s party stop. We hung out for a little while and took off. This is the last reroute section, the 2013 Powerhouse Fire. 15.9 miles of closed trail that parallel the Elizabeth Rd highway. We got a hitch into Lake Hughes and then we’re planning to hitch the second half. There was this man outside the mom and pop store with a 1918 Studebaker Big Six Touring muscle car with Klaxon horn. He fixed it up himself and says it one of only four running in the world. Still had the steel frame canvass roof, folding windshield, two middle fold out seats, and leather interior. I asked if I could have a picture with it and he let me sit inside the backseat. Then he was asking about the trail, eating a sandwich, while we were trying to gain a hitch. You might guess, but he offered us a ride! It was amazing! We only had four or five miles to go, but definitely a highlight of my day! We crammed five hikers and all our packs into the Studebaker and were off. So cool! And what a lucky hitch! Also hopefully the last road section we have to deal with.
The connector trail back to the PCT was a hot, steep incline up a drainage basin that was covered in poison oak. I am shocked that the fire section is out of commission because there aren’t enough funds for maintenance. From viewing the condition of the connector trail, I suspect there are many alternate routes being utilized. We went a few miles and stopped early at the first water and campsite. It is a bit chilly and breezy, but not bad overall. We even found three broken air soft pellet guns that almost provided mild entertainment. In total it was a short day of about 19 miles of hiking. But we “covered” 32.2 PCT miles. After several short days, I am thinking that tomorrow I will get into Hikertown for my resupply and then pull my first night hike stretch. It will make for a long day, but will hopefully put me on a good track forward. Tehachapi is only 50 miles past Hikertown and I am supposed to zero there. Hoots, Hot Sauce, Magic, Tami, and I are all together tonight. I missed Polka Dots by 30 minutes at the Fire Station this morning. He went straight on to the trail and we hitched to Casa de Luna. Who knows how far ahead he is now.
There were so many hikers today. I am nervous but also excited to push into and past the main herd.
Day: 24
Into the desert we go!
Day Twenty-four: 26 May 2015
Start: HM 498.2
End: HM 527 along the aqueduct
GPS Point: 34.85383, -118.52875
Day Total: 28.8 miles
Water at mile 502.4 Red Rock Water Tank guzzler, mile 517.6 Highway 138/Hikertown
Today was a long day. We woke up early and hit the trail before the sun was hot. Tami, Hot Sauce, and I stopped at the guzzler to get water. It took us a fair bit of time. Unlike the one we found early on in the trip, this one had a corrugated metal roof over it. The roof complicated our ability to access the guzzler, but we figured it out. Something I learned today is that hunters put up guzzlers because it provides them water but also attracts animals that they want to hunt. Also makes sense why they aren’t super accessible for humans.
By 10AM we were on full descent from the mountain down to the valley. It was exposed, hot, and terrible. I definitely do not function well in the heat. By the time we reached Hikertown, I was beat and likely very dehydrated. Upon entering the property, Tami and I were immediately accosted to be driven to the store/restaurant that the Hikertown host owns. I ended up going. It turned out to be a good trip for me. I drank a lot of cold drinks, ate a burger and fries, charged my phone up, and just hung out in the shaded room. No one else from my group went. Of the hikers I was taken with, we were all sort of just abandoned there. So I spent a few hours in town. We eventually got a ride back. I found my food package, organized my pack, washed my feet, hung out, and then it was like and rush of my group to get going. As always, I was the last to leave. 5:45 PM for some cool, slightly overcast, desert hiking into the evening.
Brandon showed up while I was at the store. Apparently he walked the road section and was actually behind us yesterday. So we are all back together, plus Tami and Magic Mike. We hiked about ten miles away from Hikertown and are all cowboy camped on this raised cement platform by the aqueduct. I suspect it is an access point of some sort. A long day, good miles, and we avoided a majority of the afternoon heat. The plan forward, while we are in the real desert finally, is to hike in the cool morning and later evening hours, without relying on hard miles during midday. We will be in Tehachapi within two days for our second zero.
There were lots of people at Hikertown. Many were some of the stay-overs we met at Casa de Luna. A large group of us took off around the same time from Hikertown to get evening hiking hours. Luckily we hiked past the main group of goers. They weren’t on the most productive agenda. And two guys past us who I think are legitimately night hiking, and not just getting bonus miles at the end of the day. I met a Colorado girl today named C+, self claimed that she is slightly above average. So many Colorado people!
I could write more but it is late and they are waking me early. Night!
Day: 25
Afternoon siestas!
Day Twenty-five: 27 May 2016
Start: HM 527
End: HM 553.8 near wind farm in burn area
GPS Point: 35.02343, -118.39493
Day Total: 26.8 miles
Water at mile 541.6 Tylerhorse Canyon,
Everyone woke up super early this morning to beat the heat of the sun. Hoots and I slept in a slight bit longer but were still on the trail at 6:10 AM. My earliest start yet!! The late start turned out in our favor too. A few miles up the dirt road after departing from the aqueduct, a man named Paul, who owns a small stretch of land we crossed over, stopped us and gave us ice cold sweet tea! I was super hydrated today, peed seven times before the afternoon siesta point, but still downed an ice cold tea! It was glorious. The last four miles were extremely hot! I have zero go power in the heat. Thought maybe dehydration slowed me down, but clearly just the power of heat can bring me down.
We finally reached the river, at mile 14, and took an afternoon break. For some reason the other four took off shortly after we arrived. I thought the idea was to shade it up for the heat of the day and hike only mornings and evenings. Who knows. Hoots and I hung out under a tree until around 3:30 PM. We ended up hiking past the other group by a few miles. The afternoon siesta was fantastic! There wasn’t much in way of shade, so I splayed out right on the trail under a tree. The ground around was too steep, and the trail was nicely smooth and level. No one seemed to mind the obstacle too much. I never actually napped, but came close several times. My body has a hard time processing temperature changes with hydration. After tremendous fluid loss this morning by peeing many times, I didn’t go again until well after we started the 12 evening miles. Strange.
Hoots and I hiked right up to darkness. Our plan had been two more miles but we were ready to stop. We ended up racing daylight to find an acceptable spot. After a few failed attempts, we found a windy but level and sandy camp area near the wind farm. I am exhausted now and ready to call it a day. Met three guys on our evening jaunt: Boom Box, Trout Sniffer, and a third one.
Day: 26
Resting for a day.
Day Twenty-eight: 28 May 2015
Start: HM 553.8
End: HM 558.5 Tehachapi Willow Springs Road
GPS Point: 35.052248, -118.358443
Day Total: 4.7 miles
Water at mile 568.5 Tehachapi
It is phenomenal how disconnected our minds and bodies can be. Town trips are somewhat exhausting. And they can either feel like forever or breeze by extremely quickly. Regardless, my mind resists the break of a zero day. My body, however, desires and possibly requires rest days. I can tell in the eagerness of my step as my body realizes rest is coming soon if only it takes me a few miles further. I find a frenzied energy of great supply. All aches and pains subside. My footing becomes hurried and exact. My body knows rest, thorough and vegetative rest, is around the next bend. My solution is to utilize neros. For Tehachapi, I hiked a few miles to the first road crossing to Tehachapi. I spent the whole day doing chores, eating town food, and resting. Tomorrow I will go out early to slack pack the eight miles to the next road crossing to Tehachapi, then return to town for another day of off-trail rest. Thus two short days of overall rest instead of one, while still getting on trail, moving my legs, not being sucked into the town stop vortex, and getting to see the trail from an easier standpoint of day hiking without all my stuff. It seems like an ingenious plan for my town days. It could have been possible in Big Bear and Wrightwood. Plus this time it will also shorten a dry, big water carry stretch.
Hoots and I got into Tehachapi fairly early. A woman on her way to work picked us up. Willow Springs Road is mostly truck traffic, but traffic moves slow enough that people might actually stop. She dropped us off right by the depot area. Which turned out in our favor. I spotted a hiker and asked about the post office, including directions. He mentioned renting a bike from the motel he was staying at. That was our ticket! Hoots and I rented bikes, rode to the airport to establish our main base, and went all over town on our various chores. Tehachapi is somewhat spread out, spanning an older main road, a highway, and the railroad. So bikes were incredible for the mile plus distances between everything. We picked up packages from the post office, organized packs, grocery shopped, did laundry, and planned some afternoon snacking. Then I became a sprawled out bum on the carpeted floor of the airport lounge. The local Tehachapi airport allows hikers to camp near and hang out in the pilots’ lounge. It is fantastic! There is only one bathroom, but it has a shower. There is a kitchen, recliners, carpet, television with cable, and wifi. This really couldn’t be more awesome. And a fantastic woman came by this afternoon and dropped off a huge amount of fresh, hot food. So great!
After a lot of relaxing, I feel pretty good. I might have a struggle actually waking up early for the start of our slack pack, but a nice man named Al offered to give us a ride at 6:30 AM. Just more examples of the immense generosity of people along the trail so far.
After a lot of beer and a shower, I am feeling great but incredibly sleepy. Cowboy camping right by the lounge. Things are mostly quiet but will have some light and noise.
Day: 27
Brilliancy of slack packing!
Day Twenty-seven: 29 May 2015
Start: HM 558.5
End: HM 566.4 Highway 58
GPS Point: 35.099399, -118.292893
Day Total: 7.9 miles
Water at mile Tehachapi.
This morning Hot Sauce, Hoots, and I walked the connecting eight miles from Tehachapi Willow Springs Road to Highway 58 without our packs. So wonderful to not have pack weight! Definitely might utilize this method in the future. Though it did make today feel like we have been in town forever. To have a whole additional day in town. It was sort of strange, and mostly resulted in hanging out in the pilots’ lounge watching television. At least I definitely had plenty of rest in. Some town chores were accomplished that make me feel justified for all the town, wifi, computer, etc. challenges I have had.
Today’s trail stretch and much of the last two days have had us hiking through wind farms. The farm here at Tehachapi is really interesting because it has been around quite a long time. They have some of the original tower designs still up and functioning. Plus they do testing of new designs. A guy who works on the platform bases happened to give us a ride back from the trail today and I asked him lots of questions. Also took lots of photos. Very interesting stuff.
Simply because I could, I took another shower today. My justification being if my clothes need presoaking, I also may need two go’s at cleanliness. Especially since this last stretch to Kennedy Meadows is the driest as well as first distance to not cross any between towns. This section will be good preparation for the whole Sierras distance. Water won’t be an issue there, but it will have some of the longest food/day spans.
When the three of us hit the trail, Polka Dots came with and continued on the trail north. We all group hugged before parting. We are pretty sure Magic also took off this morning. And Tami left this afternoon. Hoots, Hot Sauce, and I will leave in the morning. I still need to completely reorganize my pack before we hit the trail. I will wake up early and do it then. It is difficult because my sleeping quilt is the first item into my pack, so nothing else can really be organized until that’s in after I sleep tonight. Plus, with this being my longest food stretch, I am not yet sure how the squeeze six days of food into my pack under my current weight balance system. Not to worry now, I will figure it out in the morning.
Beyond that, we saw some others come into town today. At Home, the German guy, the French couple, Toes and Cheese, and others who I have only seen and not really interacted with as much. Lots of people hanging around the airport still. And the wonderful local trail angel, Teresa, brought food again for supper. Hoots asked her why she brings food every night. Her response was asking him why all of us hike every day. Pretty amazing! PCT’ers, and thru hikers in general, are often called hiker trash, but we have definitely been on the receiving end of some incredible amounts of kindness and generosity. I cannot thank the people and communities enough for everything they do. And for anyone out there who partakes in random acts of kindness, you cannot imagine how much a small gesture can mean to a person in need.
I am glad to be taking my time during this beginning part of the trail. Heat doesn’t treat me well but good company does. I am definitely glad to have been able to camp with people every night of the trip so far.

Mile 369.4 Wrightwood to mile 444.0 Acton KOA

23 May 2015

Mile 369.4 Wrightwood to mile 444.0 Acton KOA

Day: 18
Lazy half day in Wrightwood.
Day Eighteen: 20 May 2015
Start: HM 369.4
End: HM 384 Little Jimmy Campground
GPS Point: 34.347283, -117.830514
Day Total: 14.6 miles
Water at Wrightwood mile 369.4, mile 383.7 Little Jimmy Spring
I got to sleep in this morning. Which I thoroughly enjoyed. Betsy washed out clothes up this morning, we organized packs, ate breakfast, and then had Betsy drop us off in town. The post office and hardware store are next to each other and we picked up our packages, organized food, and ended up spending the whole morning in town. We hitched a ride back to Inspiration Point and were hiking just after 11:30 AM.
The first part was an easy four miles to the base of Mount Baden-Powell. There is some Boy Scout history going on here. —-Repeat map description— we took the short detour to the top. What a view! If the sky had been clearer, we supposedly could have seen Catalina Island off L.A. And into the Mojave Desert the opposite way. Pretty incredible. And there was this 1,500 year old tree right before the summit. So amazing!
Knowing today would be short, we stopped early after only around 14 miles. There are a lot of PCT’ers camped here. It is the last point right before the Endangered Species Detour. There are several detour options and my group is still in debate. I was planning to take this detour. It will essentially become official PCT trail and the alternate is supposed to be beautiful. The only issue is it being not well maintained. But this is not like the fire detours where we are road walking. It is real trail. The only issue being it is 20.5 alternate miles for a skipped 10 PCT miles. So many people are opting for the shorter alternate of 4.9 miles to skip 4.5 PCT miles. I thought we were planning the long route, I bought an extra day’s food. But today we started talk of the shorter option. Brandon has tendinitis. Ben wants the full alternate. This may be our breaking off point. The group dynamics break down when we want different things.
Langston decided he wanted a fire tonight. Which was accomplished. This campground has history, it has these old Forest Service ovens built out of brick and iron. Each of the four camp spots have three ovens. And there are two outhouse buildings with two pit toilets each. This camp site is so well established that apparently bears know to come here. Which is somewhat crazy. We all hung our food is the outhouse on the rafter beam. Some shoved theirs into the ovens. Hopefully this is all just precaution. The night will be chilly so it is unlikely we will hear a bear while bundled up tightly in our bags.
People I remember from today are Splob at Mountain Hardware, Sled Dog and his dog Oakley from the cafe and water cache point, a married couple from the top of Baden-Powell, several others from the camp, and an L.A. couple who happened to be out on an overnight trip. They made the fire with Hot Sauce and hung out with us. Good conversation. Ben and Brandon went to bed early and we never concluded our alternate route plan.
Day: 19
Failing at alternates.
Day Nineteen: 21 May 2015
Start: HM 384
End: HM 407.1 Sulphur Springs Camp
GPS Point: 34.370081, -117.995515
Day Total: 23.9 miles
Water at 383.7 Little Jimmy Spring, 394.3 Cooper Creek at Burkhart Trail, 407.1 Sulphur Springs Camp
So the idea was that Brandon would take the shorter alternate and the rest of us would take the long alternate for the Endangered Species Detour. Except I don’t navigate off my phone and thought the long alternate would begin from the PCT trail. Instead I got a few miles into the wrong path and decided that I would just keep going. I am undetermined on whether coincidences happen so took the mess up as reason to move on. I actually ended up sitting at a river for two hours contemplating on what to do. Brandon showed up, explained that the other guys had turned back and made it to the correct alternate. His plan was to continue for at least twenty miles. I decided that I would just move forward too. I likely could have made a good distance today, but I’m glad I will at least be able to consciously part with Brandon to pass goodbyes onto the others. Otherwise it would have just been me never showing up again. Thus I am camped in the same camp as Brandon, and six others, but tomorrow I will kick off to get as close to the Acton KOA as possible. Brandon will likely go around 20 miles again and the others will have a chance to catch up. I may give time for them to catch me too. I need to take care of some business that requires an outlet and wifi at the KOA or in Agua Dulce.
Taken from Halfmile’s map info: “The once thriving Mountain Yellow-Legged Frog is now nearly extinct. To protect the frog, the PCT has been closed for several years from Eagles Roost [mile 390.3] to the Burkhart trail junction [mile 394]. …For more information about the Mountain yellow-legged frog see: www.mylfrog.info.”
Today’s terrain was surprisingly easy. I feel like I could have gone a long time further had there been more daylight hours. It was cold all day. I think my body functions more efficiently while cold. When hot, it wants to shut down. It must be a combination of slower metabolism, need for warmth, and less water loss. Regardless, I sort of wish I had tried to go on today instead of doubting moving on alone. Since I was on my own agenda, I took more breaks and moved faster overall. Anyways, our camp area is nicely coved off and low in elevation. Brandon and I had stopped right where the trail camp is, so funny. We setup camp in the horse area while the South Korean man, Kay, with my same shoes, walked up and asked why we weren’t at the camp area. There was good water too, unlike the tadpole filled, stagnant pools we had just filled up from. Kay was with Smiles for Miles, there was an older gentleman already at the campground who has just gotten back on trail from an injury, and met the the Baden-Powell couple and another guy from last night’s camp. Glad we moved over to the proper camp area. There were tables and pit toilets. I haven’t peed outside once today with all the pit toilets the trail crossed today. Sort of crazy.
Day: 20
PCTA Trail Gorillas and PDB.
Day Twenty: 22 May 2015
Start: HM 407.1
End: HM 436 North Fork Ranger Station
GPS Point: 34.387541, -118.252285
Day Total: 28.9 miles
Water at mile 418.8 Mill Creek Ranger Station
What a mentally taxing day! I started off well. The camp last night was so quiet and protected from wind. I slept amazingly. Also slept in! Left camp at 8:30 and quickly made my to the Mill Creek Ranger Station. Just before the station I ran into a group of four PCTA Trail Gorillas working away at maintaining the trail. These people have been tirelessly working away four five years at getting the 400-440 section back into shape after a fire that went through there. Most notably the trail had become completely overgrown by this plant called Poodle Dog Bush, fondly shortened to PDB among hikers, that has little hairs all over it. These hairs can cause an allergic response just like poison oak or ivy. Very serious stuff. And the 400-440 section used to be a death zone. But this year the trail is completely open. There is still PDB from miles 403 to 436 everywhere around the trail but avoidable. I think most people are still taking the road walk that bypasses this section. Despite being avoidable, it does require you to pay attention and dodge a few areas. I was mentally exhausted from watching everywhere I placed a foot, elbow, or pack strap. The best part being that it can take anywhere from a day to two weeks for the response to show up. Joy! Then, right as you are about to reach the North Fork Ranger Station (approximately mile 433), there is poison oak everywhere! It was just before 6:30 PM when I showed up to camp. Only eight miles to the KOA but I couldn’t take anymore. I can’t be sure yet, but I feel like I must have touched either the PDB or poison oak. Hopefully a shower, pool soak, and laundry tomorrow will be all I need.
I am actually glad I stopped. There are lots of people camped here. At least eight camped up top in the wind, and seven more down by the horse corrals where I am. There is a group of four: Redwood, Galaxy, Dragonfly, and Breeze, At Home, a guy I passed on trail who has a bad ankle, and Brandon made it. Plus there were many people that I passed on trail who didn’t make it here. Notably, Cool Kay, Jobs and Siesta, Van Gogh and Tortoise, Drift, Tumbleweed and her boyfriend, and others. I saw at least twenty names down for today at the 419 trail register, so I am positive some must have reached the Acton KOA.
Speaking of which, I am in somewhat of a pickle. The KOA is only eight miles away. I will stop and do some chores and get my resupply. But now I am curious if I should continue past Agua Dulce, a mere 12 miles past the KOA. That would be a 20 mile day and productive. I need to do a few hours of computer things with wifi connection and an outlet. I will talk to Brandon tomorrow. Seems like he is willing to keep up. His foot must be feeling better. I do like the idea of pushing forward. Maybe seeing how many days I can take longer miles. I also am tempted by the idea of soaking in the KOA hot tub and having pizza delivered… Oh Southern California, so many distractions and temptations.
Alright I sat around chatting with At Home and Redwood way too long. Falling asleep now.
Day: 21
Distractions in Southern California.
Day Twenty-one: 23 May 2015
Start: HM 436
End: HM 444 Acton KOA
GPS Point: 34.438362, -118.272114
Day Total: 8 miles
Water at mile 436 North Fork Ranger Station.
Great time last night at camp with new people. Word on the trail is that the main herd is within the next two hundred miles. I am not prepared for so many people, but also excited to meet new people. And the two days of trial for breaking away from the guys was a good experience. I feel less pressure while hiking on my own agenda. And I make way better time. I will continue on at my own pace and maybe the crew will stay together, but I am satisfied if we become more fluctuant on speeds and mileage.
So many people today! Drift made it to the KOA last night. Then Coppertone (Vic Hansen) was at the parking lot right before the KOA turnoff. What better than some early AM trail magic! We saw him with ours and ice cream about five days back. I sat with him and Galaxy, Redwood, and Dragonfly for about an hour before Brandon and At Home turned up. Then more from last night’s camp turned up so we continued the last 1/4 mile to the KOA. Right as we were walking in, I spotted Ben. He developed some terrible shin splints during the long alternate and got a ride this morning with the Acton trail angel, Mary, from the Mill Creek Ranger Station to the KOA. He is pretty upset about being hurt. Hopefully with rest today he will be back at full speed tomorrow. Also found Jackson at the KOA. He didn’t resupply in Wrightwood and ran out of food, so pulled a 24 hour day to hike 50 some miles into the KOA. Pretty intense! Ben said Hot Sauce and Mike (the Kiwi) should get into the KOA tonight.
En route to the KOA this morning I decided I would take a Nero. I needed to do some computer stuff. Much to my surprise when I found out the KOA had broken down wifi and it is Memorial Weekend so a million people are camped there tonight. That equals zero access to the hot tub. Somewhat regretting not hiking on to Agua Dulce. I just wasn’t prepared to do 14 more miles and spend a good chunk of time on the Internet. In a grumpy mood, I feel like all I get is a shower and washed clothes. Which isn’t a small thing, but also not the whole package I was hoping for. Then, with the intention of finding Internet, because not only does the KOA not have wifi but also has zero service, I blundered on hitching to Acton the town. Two car rides and several walking spurts later, I am on the southern side of town at the 49ers Bar and Grill. I needed to be on the north end, two miles away, but cut my losses. I ate a cheeseburger, guacamole and salsa with chips, and several beers. I am feeling less disgruntled but wary of how I will hitch back to the KOA as the day progresses. That said, it is clearly not the end of the day, but I am ending this entry early so I can continue onto other internet chores.

Mile 266.0 Big Bear Lake to 369.4 Wrightwood

23 May 2015

Mile 266.0 Big Bear Lake to 369.4 Wrightwood

Day: 14
Back on trail!
Day Fourteen: 16 May 2015
Start: HM 266.0 Big Bear Lake
End: HM 294.6 Bench Trail Camp
GPS Point: 34.278131, -117.083007
Day Total: 28.6 miles
Water at mile 292 Holcomb Creek at Crab Flats Rd
It is nice to be back on trail. The town stop was great, but half days are better. The whole day off left me feeling at odds with the system I have worked out on the trail. Also, I normally have issues in vehicles anyways, but I genuinely felt car sick after sitting backwards in the shuttle today to the trail.
All that aside, I felt great today! Super full from the copious eating, but we went 28 miles and my legs feel stuff from the day off but no soreness. The blisters I had seem happily turning to callouses. My feet LOVED the brand new socks that arrived in my resupply. I gave a parting celebration to my faithful Injinjis from the past couple years. These new ones should take me through the trip I would think. My shoes, however, may need another size bigger next time. It is incredible how much my feet seem to have lengthened. I saw lengthened instead of swelled because they don’t seem snug for side space, genuinely it is just the length.
A guy named Langston, who I first met in Idlewild, has joined our brigand. He first hiked with us from Coon Creek Cabin and caught the same room at the hostel with us. Cool guy. I have tentatively named him Hot Sauce as he seems to really love hot sauce. But I originally called him Transformers because his shoe print meshes into other prints and is deceptive. Ben has officially accepted Hoots. Which I proudly gave him. We even found the old Forest Service Woodsy Owl, whose slogan says “Give a hoot – don’t pollute!” On the camp area bulletin board. So great! We need to find a good one for Brandon still. Mostly he has disliked the suggestions. Big Bear was like a great reunion. We saw Mike, the Kiwi from Warner. Jackson from the night we met Ben. John from several crossing paths. And many others who did or did not have as large of impacts.
Today we saw many people on the trail too. Many stopped before us. Some likely made it further. The trail was so easy, and after rest we just killed the miles. If I can get us to do bonus miles, I may not end up as behind schedule and will get to maintain my good company! Hehe. We stopped at the Bench Trail Camp area to find that this Saturday evening a Boy Scouts troupe is also camped. We opted to find beach spots down by the river, which will result in a cool and dewy night for us. But better than being kept up all night by noisy kids enjoying a night out. A girl named Unicorn has joined us, and she is hiking with her dog, Charlie. Cute little beagle mix.
I am sure there is more to say but I am ready to tuck myself in from the chill that has numbed my fingers.
Day: 15
Hot springs, rainbow bridge, and pie al a mode!
Day Fifteen: 17 May 2015
Start: HM 294.6
End: HM 318 Grass Valley Creek
GPS Point: 34.312386, -117.265187
Day Total: 23.4 miles
Water at mile 298.3 Deep Creek Bridge, 313.4 Deep Creek ford, mile 318 Grass Valley Creek
Today was a good day and a less than good day. To get the lesser news out of the way, I stubbed two ties on my right foot and will likely lose the big toe nail, I lost my umbrella somewhere, and I sucked water up my nose which later gave me a nose bleed. Those events aside, I also lounged in a natural hot springs, walked across a rainbow bridge, and met a nice man named Coppertone (PCT ’06) who fed us pie al a mode and bananas. So a pretty awesome day all in all.
Today was really hot. We took lots of breaks, but I was feeling it. Today we passed areas that are easily accessible by locals, combined with it being the weekend, there were so many people! It was crazy how many non PCT’ers we saw. I was barely getting used to the hiker amounts. We also walked over a spillway where a small “lake” was surrounded by off-road vehicles. As well as multiple sightings of dirt bikers racing around on the PCT and creating their own paths up the terrain. It was almost too much for me. Tonight we are camped with six other PCT’ers, bringing the area total to ten. I suspect we will be running into the main herd before we reach Tehachapi. Coppertone had seventeen people sign in on his book as having passed by his generous food pit stop today alone. Not to mention almost an equal amount for yesterday. Tomorrow our goal is to reach Cajon Pass where the guys are planning to access the eatery joints just off trail on an access road.
Random notes of interest. I saw Unicorn carrying her dog Charlie on her back across her shoulders. It was the cutest thing! Charlie looked so pacified to be carried. Also, we crossed mile 300 today! Still hiking along with Hoots, Brandon, and Langston. Ran back into Tami throughout the day and Taxi at the hot springs drinking a beer. Otherwise only new people or tourists crossed our paths.
With all the diversions today, we hiked our latest evening. It was already seven when we really settled to camp. Thus it is late now and I am quite sleepy.
Day: 16
A day of eating.
Day Sixteen: 18 May 2015
Start: HM 318
End: HM 344.3 dirt road crossing
GPS Point: 34.291652, -117.478242
Day Total: 26.3 miles
Water at mile 328.7 Silverwood Lake State Recreation Area, mile 342 Interstate 15 in Cajon Canyon at Chevron
Today has been an incredibly hot day! And the latter half, while walking detritus mound crests, was super windy. While sitting at second lunch, I found a tick crawling on my poncho seat. We stopped just under a large power line. The kind that looks like a lady’s dress. A few miles from our camping point, we stopped at an interstate gas stop and ate McDonalds (the PCT sign genuinely points towards the McD’s) and loitered at a Chevron. I have eaten so much food today! But it all goes towards energy right? I ate all my day’s rations, plus food at McD’s with Chevron snacks. I am glad I have my food prepackaged. It is easy to supplement cheese sticks and snickers bars, but seems pricey to buy the whole lot. My companions are all buying as we go. I feel postage isn’t as much as the difference of shopping at small town mini marts.
We ate first lunch by this beautiful double lake reservoir camp area. It was chilly from cold wind coming off the lakes. I sat in the sun to stay warm. Ben told me all about local plants and trail maintenance things. I really want to get a California flora book for my upcoming move to CA. We keep crossing paths with Tami. Camped with her last night. There were also three brothers who race along for a few miles then take a twenty minute break. There was also Marian, from Croatia, who teaches in L.A.  Awesome guy! And great accent! Met several others too. Many were while we stopped at the McD’s and Chevron. Some where planning to stay at the Best Western on the interstate crossing. I am somewhat jealous of the cool room, shower, pool, and soft bed. But also glad that we should make it to Wrightwood tomorrow. Langston has officially accepted Hot Sauce as his trail name. So we have Hoots, Hot Sauce, Schemes (me), and Brandon still sans trail name.
Cajon Pass up to McDonald’s is along a small stretch of the historic Route 66. Route 66 ran 2,448 miles from Chicago, IL, to Los Angeles, CA. There is a 1917 memorial at the pass to commemorate all the pioneers of the Salt Lake and Santa Fe Trails. Very interesting that this monumental path is now a side road off a busy L.A. Interstate. As long forgotten as the travelers who once made that traverse. I do also want to point out that Route 66 is shorter than the PCT. Somewhat of a novel thought that people would walk such a distance for entertainment.
Leaving the I-15 underpass it was like walking into a horror film set. The tunnel curved and was like a large, dark abyss. Then you walk out into this grassy, plant filled area next to train tracks with an old house that had old rusting vehicles and old rusting signs. We walked on a few miles and camped at an intersection with a dirt road. You can still hear the trains and interstate from here, but it’s significantly quieter. We suspect there may be a few night hikers tonight from people walking through the Cajon Canyon food stop. The Chevron is 24 hour and I think McD’s has late hours too.
When we reached the interstate underpass there was a sign with the remaining mileage to Canada. It really has me thinking about this whole thing. I am on day 16 and only just into the beginning. Half way through the desert. My motto has always been that life is about the journey, not the end point. Here’s looking forward to the next two and a half months of adventure!
Day: 17
Crossing the San Andreas fault!
Day Seventeen: 19 May 2015
Start: HM 344.3
End: HM 369.4 Inspiration Point trailhead
GPS Point: 34.372532, -117.710476
Day Total: 25.1 miles
Water at Wrightwood mile 369.4

So just as we were leaving our camp, a vehicle drove through the abandoned road. So much for our safety cowboy camping on an abandoned road… Anyways, we all slept late. Which, fast forward, is why we couldn’t get our packages before things closed in Wrightwood today. This morning I also discovered that my camera memory card was not pushed in all the way and I have zero pictures from yesterday. Yesterday, which was some of the best photos with the iconic western hills, trains, and setting sun. Or the cloud covered peaks of the mountains in the distance of the reservoirs we were walking along. Shortly after hitting the trail, we crossed the San Andreas fault!! It was so obvious and giant and wonderful! I almost wish I studied hard rock. 🙂

We ran back into Marian and Tami. Also met two girls, eBrake and Orbitz. Who have kind of an amazing story. Orbitz was dropping off her friend at the Mexico terminus and she forgot to put on the eBrake. Her truck ended up rolling into something and being totaled. She happened to have her stuff with her, so she decided to join eBrake (so named because of the event) to Agua Dulce, where Orbitz lives. Orbitz hiked the PCT previously. Also ran into At Home, a guy we met yesterday at McD’s.
Highlights of the day are coming into the last mountain climb. The clouds have been sitting in the peaks. We walked up right into them. They are thickly blowing through. Creating that stillness or calm cool warmth while hiking. It was beautiful. Last night our sleeping area was eventually within a cloud, thickly shrouded around us. There is talk of cold weather this coming weekend. We should just be getting into Acton KOA by then. Or a day about there. My goal is to wash clothes, and hopefully myself, about every hundred miles. 🙂 Maybe that is too luxurious but I am hoping at least while weather is hot and I am constantly sweating through my clothes that I can wash frequently.
We hiked through Sugar Bowl ski resort into Wrightwood. It is funny to think about now, but before leaving for the PCT I have been freaking out about where I will be able to ski while living in Santa Barbara the next five years. I have now walked through Big Bear Lake and Sugar Bowl. Granted this is summer and there is no snow. But I feel like I am getting to check out my potential stomping grounds. Wrightwood is full of incredibly friendly people! They are so generous to the hikers. We were picked up by Betsy Browning. She took us from the Hwy 2 road crossing to the local grocery, then picked us back up to take us to her home. She let us shower and do laundry, and has sleeping areas for us. She seems like a wonderful woman! She also has nine cats and two dogs and a huge garden. Her cats have busily been smelling everything of ours and running themselves over everything. It is just so nice to be clean and know I will have fresh clothes. I am amazed at how wonderful people have been. Betsy does t know us. We are just four stinky strangers. Yet she invited us into her home and gave us so much. She is amazing!
Anyways, today has been long and I am exhausted. Until tomorrow.

Mile 109.5 Warner Springs to 266.0 Big Bear Lake

15 May 2015

Mile 109.5 Warner Springs to 266.0 Big Bear Lake

Day: 6
Weather surprises!
Day Six: 8 May 2015
Start: HM 109.5
End: HM 115 camp area at Agua Caliente Creek
GPS Point: 33.311008, -116.627581
Day Total: 5.5 mi
Water at Warner Springs Resource Center
Rained all day but needed to get going. Having laundry done put me a day behind. But people at the Resource Center were so wonderful. This morning we had ingredients for making pancakes, cheesy onion eggs, and toast. There were also hamburgers and hot dogs for lunch but my burger was given away. I was able to sleep in, organize my gear, assess the maps and how far I want to go, caught up some computer stuff for the blog and resupply, talked to my mom, discovered my charging cable doesn’t work, soaked my feet in a foot bath with Epsom salts, and so many wonderful things. Also slept under the tarp in rain with minor issues. Great learning experience to better prepare for future rain situations. Definitely want to build a raised edge on the ground sheet so water goes under and cannot pool on top. Also need to make sure my vestibule doorways are properly extended because water can drop in that way. Wish the vestibules had a slightly longer length so they were closer to the ground when extended. Also think there might be a tiny hole at the top were water dropped right on my center. May just need to tape a bag over the outside or even duct tape might suffice. Also discovered how great my quilt is at warmth even in rain. And I have a great venting system with my pillow to cover my face but be able to breath fresh air. Loving the quilt and double insulating foam pads! So glad I brought the “luxurious” extra pad to sleep on. Not as good as a bed, but way better than just the 3/4 pad without the additional head to toe warmth. Slept great last night and slept in! But I am fully conscious of being a day behind. I have a creeping ambition to finish in less than the estimated 99 days. And try to hike OR’s highest peak, Mount Hood, from Timberline Lodge. I am tempted. It may mean leaving behind good hiking company.
Camped at Agua Caliente Creek. Great camp area. Met a cool 25/26 (birthday on May 12th) guy named Ben who is a day ahead of me. Hosted at Girlscout’s the night after Brandon and me. I definitely want to get going now that I see he has only been doing 25 mile days to be a whole day ahead already. He may want to finish in less than 100 days now that I said I was planning it. Guy named Jackson also showed up at our camp site. He’s from San Diego and gave bear canister advice for the Kennedy Meadows section. His dad is the western states bear manager who decides what canisters are allowed and what techniques are acceptable. Cool and informative, plus relieving to know I don’t have to hike between bear boxes if my miles work differently. Glad to be back on trail away from the Center, too many people hanging out there if I am honest. Kind of distracted me from the hike.
Day: 7
Two days in one.
Day Seven: 9 May 2015
Start: HM 115
End: HM 143 sandy area near Table Mountain Truck Trail crossing
GPS Point: 33.499568, -116.570308
Day Total: 28 miles
Water at Mike Herrera Road mi 127, Guzzler cistern 139.5
Today was like two days in one for me. My clock has two time settings. The main one is for Pacific time and the other is Central. Somehow I switched it to Central in the night and woke up thinking everything was running two hours later than reality. The morning was crisply cool, overcast, calm, and quiet. We pounded out the first 12 miles by 10:00 AM and I thought it was noon. We ran into Sunflower who mentioned stopping for lunch and I thought we had already been waiting too long. About the same time I discovered my time error, we reached the house of Mike Herrera, at mile 127. I thought it was just a water stop. Saw the sign for a register by the house. Brandon and I walked over and discovered a time warp of hikers, PCT supporters, pancakes, potatoes, bacon, doughnuts, Mexican mimosas (Orange juice with tequila), and chickens were smoking for lunch. Brandon and I ate a second breakfast, score on bonus food!, and got out of there after about an hour. Some of the hikers had been there a couple days. They were technically riding out the snowy weather, but the place definitely has the feel of somewhere you meant to stop for water and just never left. Made me think of Ogygia, the island from the Odyssey with the lotus eaters. Saw Jackson resting at the upper water tank resisting the lure of music below.  Anyways, once leaving Mike’s the day was suddenly sunny, hot, and slightly breezy. That marked day two. Today’s mileage actually felt like forward progress and not just winding in and out of the same mountain. We’ve finally moved north on a significant scale. I feel the progress. Very happy. We plugged ahead until running into Ben at the Guzzler cistern. Realizing we too were out of water,we had to  filter and treat the nastiness. Thankfully Ben let us use his filter! Will definitely watch the water report locations better going forward. Then hiked on to a beautiful sandy area that has endless camping space and relatively protected. So nice! We’d meant to go on another mile plus but this site was perfect. We relaxed in the setting sun, ate supper, and I am cowboy camping tonight. First night! The weather really hasn’t been good for it. Since my tent is actually a tarp construction, cowboy camping is literally the same except no cover. Which saved some put up and tear down time. Otherwise isn’t really not that different. I suspect there might be some warmth loss, but my sleeping bag is so wonderful that I do not think I will notice a difference. Beyond the incredible star filled sky above me with zero light pollution and shooting stars. Fantastic!!
Not as many people today (beyond the ten or so at Mike’s). Finally starting to shift out of the pack we started with and working into an earlier wave of hikers. I don’t want to force Brandon’s hiking agenda, but I do want to make miles. Tonight I pushed us on for the extra three miles. It means tomorrow we hike 9 miles to Paradise Cafe and a fresh cooked meal of veggies and fruit! How I miss fresh food. Otherwise I feel great. My feet are slowly adjusting, I finally feel strong in the extra miles, and my legs are still working on the speed part. My body also hasn’t figured out its eating desires yet. I ate everything portioned for today plus the bonus food and feel full. Otherwise feeling really good! Excited to keep moving.
Day: 8
Road walking is the worst!
Day Eight: 10 May 2016
Start: HM 143
End: HM Alternate Mile 10.7 into Idlewild
GPS Point: 33.74518, -116.71161
Day Total: 18 miles
Water at Paradise Cafe mi 152
Today I decided I dislike the detours. There are three detours in total. Two for fires and one for an endangered species. Today’s alternate route would have added about 5 miles to the original distance, taken me up, over and down two big climbs, and would not have been well marked. I opted instead to skip that 20 mile detour and walk the 10 miles of road towards Idlewild. After the worst road walk ever, Brandon, Ben, and I hitched into Idlewild. So I caught up my mileage from the stop at Warner and skipped a terrible alternate section. With my upcoming move to Santa Barbara, I think I will wait until the three detours are back to normal and then hike the official routes.
Apparently we camped near a major pot growing area last night and the incessant dogs barking were actually watch dogs. The group who had holed up at Mike’s also caught up. They night walked. I woke up around nine thirty as they walked past.
We hiked hard for Hwy 74, mi 152, where Brandon and I met Collin and Diego, two friends from Utah. The four of us got a ride to Paradise Cafe a mile down the highway. At the cafe we ate glorious omelettes and had a beer. Ben caught up and then took off down the road walk ahead of us. The highway walking was brutal. Hot, stagnant air. Barely a shoulder in some areas. Some sketchy bridge crossings. We arrived to Hurkey Creek Campground ans decided to hitch straight into Idlewild. A nice woman named Connie picked us up. Idlewild is a cute little town. Sort of spread out, and everyone drives like maniacs. Cute nonetheless. A guy named Carlos offered to give us a ride back to trail tomorrow; we met him at a pizza restaurant.
Turns out Ben will continue on with us. Tomorrow we start at mile 179.4 Humber Park, hike up San Jacinto Peak, then descend about 9000′ over 17 miles. We plan to reach the bottom of the pass and camp there for the night.
We hung out at the Idlewild bakery. The owner is a thru hiker who let’s hikers camp in the Manzanitas outside and access to washer/dryers and a bathroom. Pretty awesome! Fairly large crowd hanging around.
Jackson caught up in Idlewild too. Also a bunch of other new people. Most started before us. We are definitely more focused than many. Ben has opted to start enjoying the hiker extras and trail angel generosity. Second night cowboy camping. Super tired tonight. Loud crowd of people staying up late but I will sleep easily.
Day: 9
San Jacinto Peak and muscle cramps.
Day Nine: 11 May 2015
Start: HM 179.4 Humber Park
End: HM 197 Fuller Ridge
GPS Point: 33.871156, -116.711446
Day Total: 19.3 (added San Jacinto Peak!)
Water at North Fork San Jacinto tributary mi 186.2
The wind is blowing so hard! I may not write much. We got a ride from the Bakery in Idlewild to Humber Park this morning with a man who hiked the PCT last year and is now following the herd up Cali to offer rides in his mini van. So thoughtful! Though not sure I’d be able to do such a thing for a whole summer.
The trail up San Jacinto was brutal. Big rocks, poorly maintained trail, giant steps, and steep. I got a muscle cramp in my left leg. Hurt like no cramp I’ve ever felt before. A pointed sharp pain in the calf on any motion of pushing off. Downhill was fine except that we had only just begun the ascent. The trip to the top took longer than any of us expected. And we barreled down with hopes of reaching the bottom of Fullers Ridge. Just shy of 20 miles we stopped at an exposed campground. With the setting sun, the wind suddenly started and there is little in way of protection. I have everything in my bag or rocked down. Hopefully nothing can blow away. Cowboy camped again solely because I didn’t think my tarp would offer much in way of wind protection beyond listening to it flap all night. Mostly I am just conscious of the sand I will have plastered in my hair and on my face by morning. We were all beat and called it an early night. It just passed eight and I am ready to hunker down.
Collin from yesterday has joined our band momentarily. His friend Diego was staying in Idlewild. Ben’s birthday is tomorrow. We met three guys at the water spot who had lost their friend. None of us had seen her. A big group headed out from the Bakery this morning but we never ran into them.
Peak of San Jacinto was amazing. So worth the grueling up hill followed by the unending down off Fuller Ridge. Beautiful to see back at the mountains we hiked previously. And inspiring to watch the peak grow further away as we hiked on. Ben said a nice phrase by Muir about man not conquering mountains and even as they walk away their tracks are already blown away in the wind.
Three guys just walked past. Possibly the three AT guys who have been on our trail. Plus they’ve walked by at night before.
That’s it. About 69 miles to Big Bear where I plan on my first real zero. Laundry, shower, bed, loaner clothes, and a whole day to catch up on the non hiking side of my life.
Day: 10
I’ve acquired a trail name: Schemes!
Day Ten: 12 May 2015
Start: HM 197
End: HM 220 Whitewater Creek sandy river beach oasis
GPS Point: 34.01051, -116.67143
Day Total: 23
Water at 205.7 Snow Canyon Rd (Desert Water Agency faucet), mi 210.8 Ziggy and the Bear Whitewater Hiker House, mi 220.4 Whitewater Creek (north of Red Dome)
I’ve taken a trail name today. Brandon tried Two Zip on day one. Ben tried Dill yesterday. But today they announced Schemes, and that one I like a lot.
Today was the first truly hot day. From right when we woke up to even now, the temperature has been warm. We stopped at Ziggy and The Bear’s Whitewater Hiker House for a long afternoon break after a hot and windy final stretch down Fuller Ridge and across the desert floor over to the house. There were heaps of people at Ziggy and Bear. I was surprised. A great setup though. The couple used to Trail Angel out of Anza for 15 years before buying that house in Cabazón specifically to host hikers. I am constantly aware of the overwhelming generosity and kindness of people along the PCT. The house has a sink right at the backyard entrance. And then virtually every inch of the back is carpeted and shaded for people to hang out and relax. They have a shower too. And accept packages. And there was a young woman helping out who apparently runs daily lunch orders for Little Caesars. They had cold drinks and a sign in, hiker box (where I found the perfect camp sandals!), outlets, laundry and a line, drinkable water, etc. it truly was an awesome place. Not sketchy and creepy like many of the other hiker hot spots. And as always, there were some people who had spent days off there.
I am surprised by how many people take days off at these little spots instead of at towns. With full services, things to do, and comfortable beds. I am also surprised by the foot carnage and general beaten look of people too. I suppose this activity really isn’t for everyone. And there is another set of people who just keep skipping ahead sections. Which is crazy to me. I understand wanting to skip, but not the actual doing of the skipping. I will admit that I am no saint. I skipped at the fire detour and plan to repeat that for the other two sections. But I also plan to return when those sections are finalized and hike them then. As well as be completely honest about the skipping of these sections.
After leaving, we had a hot and steep climb over a pass and down into a river valley that is truly beautiful. We are cowboy camped right by Whitewater Creek on the flood plain. I have tempted the guys with a really early start tomorrow in hopes that we A) actually go the desired 26 miles, B) have the possibility of aim inning for 36 miles, and C) because tomorrow will be uphill in the full brunt of the sun. I am a day behind on my schedule. Right now I like the idea of a hostel Thursday and camp Friday. But they are supposed to get snow Friday, so I want to be prepared for either way. Regardless, I am a day behind schedule and I want to build some extra days in by doing longer miles. I have really enjoyed the company, and I like it a lot for morale and motivation. But I also have a goal and really care about having time in August to spend in Colorado more than slowing down on the PCT. I will have to think more on this.
My body is feeling pretty good. Today I felt thirsty for the first time. The heat and wind really sucked the moisture out of me. I am trying to be good about drinking plenty of water. I know the next 525 miles will continue to test my hydration awareness. Ben made a good comment that despite needing to think of forward movement on a stop by stop basis. It is good to step back and remember the big picture: getting to Canada. It will be easy to lose days while going along.
Bed now. Another clear and calm night to stare at stairs. There are several people at tonight’s camp point. A middle aged couple came back from the 226 mile point, calling it quits on their adventure due to tired bodies. I think it is sweet that they are out here together. I want to be an adventurous and ambitious couple with a significant other some day.
Day: 11
Mountain lion sighting!
Day Eleven: 13 May 2015
Start: HM 220
End: HM 246.4 Coon Creek Cabin group cabin
GPS Point: 34.14940, -116.71054
Day Total: 26.4
Water at mi 226.3 Mission Creek, 232.2 Mission Creek, 235.4 Mission Creek, mi 239.9 Mission Spring Trail Camp
Last night was some of the best sleep of all trip so far. And I woke up just before five and rubbed out my legs and feet. I was still the last one to leave camp, but I did have a nice conversation with the couple who showed up last night. They got up the pass and decided they were done. They were coming back down back to Cabazón to get somewhere they could rent a car to pick up their resupply boxes and head home. They said they needed a doctor’s care, so they were ready to be done. They gave me two blister band aids. So nice. Anyways, I took off after the guys, finally caught Ben just as we hit the first water source. I stopped for water and a snack, he kept going. I didn’t catch up again until lunch where Ben and Brandon were resting at the 235 last water. I was struggling today. Probably drank seven liters and never peed until after lunch. We pushed hard up to the 240 last water where their were many people lounging. That water was a trickle coming down from tree roots. Very cold and very slow. I was the last to leave again but I felt refreshed after the break in the shade. And I aired out and re-taped my tired feet. I killed the last six miles easy. We are cowboy camped on the front cement patio of the Coon Creek Cabin. The insides have clearly been vacant for a good 20-30 years. No doors or windows. Likely was an old cabin that was refitted in 1980 to be the shell it is now. Likely a Hunta Virus playground too.
Ben and I came up with Babel for Brandon’s trail name. He is against it, but I thought it was so fitting.
I saw a mountain lion today! Just as I was leaving the 240 water source, you cross a flat forested area. There are two roads then a trail crossing for Santa Ana Trail. It was on the trail walking just passed that. I kept a strong pace at it and it stepped off eventually, so I booked past. My camera has been in my pack all day, so I didn’t take the time to slow down and get a photo.
Tomorrow is supposed to get weather. And tonight will be dewy and cold. There are six on the patio. Three under a neighboring tree. And one more under a different tree. More may come in as evening sets in. Or at least be camped close by. 20 miles to the Big Bear hitch at mile 266! I have many town chores to take care of. This is all I can think of for now. Tonight is cold, genuinely cold.
Day: 12
In town for bad weather, best timing ever!
Day Twelve: 14 May 2015
Start: HM 246.4
End: HM 266.0 into Big Bear Lake
GPS Point: 34.24308, -116.90958
Day Total: 20 miles
No water. Soda at Big Bear Hostel trail magic stash.
So it may be official, my band of hiker friends is splitting off. The guys don’t plan to up their mileage, and I have a goal in mind. I want to move large miles. I will miss their company tremendously. Ben Thayer and Brandon. Great guys. But I have a goal. I want to spend time in Colorado for August. I know I can do large miles. It will just be lonely until I meet others who are willing to do large miles too. I may not meet anyone for a long time. I am coming up on the main herd, so at least I should see lots of people. Be able to camp in numbers. Lounge will fellow hikers. But no more support system like I have now. It is too sad to dwell on. There have to be more awesome people out there.
Today was a breeze. We covered the first four miles to the animal cages quickly. Then it was another quick three miles to the bomb Big Bear Hostel trail magic. They have a couch and tool chest out there in the woods with food and soda and fruit. So awesome! Once those first seven miles were down, it was just a game of picking off miles. I was in the lead and stopped at 261.5 for lunch. The guys caught up and we crushed the last 4.5 miles easily. A trail angel named Tinkerbell picked us up from Hwy 18 and took us to the post office then hostel. The hostel is great! I have loaner clothes, took a long hot shower, dried off with a towel, and have a bed with linens. After cleaning up, we headed out for supper. Went to a Thai place that had two entrées for the price of one deal. We all ordered two meals. So full but so delicious too. It had started snowing shortly after our arrival to the hostel. On the way back we stopped in a chocolate shop and I got Dryers Mocha Almond Fudge ice cream to go. Plus we stopped at a liquor store and got beer. This evening has been lounging on a couch with beer and TV movies. The hostel has so many hikers at it. Some have been here a day, others nearing a week. I suppose that is the way of zeroes. It has been unreal to think about the snow outside and know that I am safely in a dry warm place. Shelter never seems so good until you think about what dealing on your own is like. This was nice timing to hit Big Bear the day weather started. I do want to look ahead and see if there are more weather days coming that I can try to hike within. Especially if I will be on my own soon.
I am tired, full, and a little tipsy. So maybe more reflection tomorrow.
Day: 13
First Zero day!
Day Thirteen: 15 May 2015
Start: HM 266.0
End: HM 266.0 Big Bear Lake
GPS Point: 34.24308, -116.90958
Day Total: 0 miles
No water. Restaurants and easy food all meals!
Rethinking my Sierras mileage somewhat. Mostly just about shortening some miles and adding a resupply point. Lots of town chores today. That’s pretty much it. Resting my legs and feet. Eating copiously. Preparing for a strong kick off tomorrow.
I have decided that I will remain with the guys for the remainder of the desert. It will likely add four days total to my agenda, but it is worth making up miles later. I am enjoying my hiking companions, and this trip is about the people I meet just as much as the physical challenges I will encounter. Once the Sierras start I will be ready to take off on my own, but I want the company through the desert. This is the right choice and I am not regretting it at all. What I am thinking about is that my pack now has four days of food and feels VERY heavy. I am excited to get going. Being in town this whole time has felt like forever. I wasn’t productive at all. I barely got my town chores completed. It is already late but off to bed now.

Mile 0.0 Campo to 109.5 Warner Springs

15 May 2015

Mile 0.0 Campo to 109.5 Warner Springs

Day: 1
The Adventure Begins!
Day One: 3 May 2015
Start: HM 0 mi
End: HM 20 mi Lake Mirena Campground
GPS Point: 32.68596 -116.51724
Day Total: 20 miles
Water at start, water at Lake Mirena
What a start! Girlscout, my gracious host, picked me up at the airport yesterday evening where I discovered I was one of three PCT’ers.  A mostly calm night, I finally organized my pack. We arrived to the Mexican border around 7AM this morning. My start buddies: Brandon and Lyle, and I took a team photo at the start portal and then hit the trail. I knew we were going to the border, however I didn’t foresee the literal giant metal fence marking the invisible line with a tangible border. While taking photos, several more vehicles dropped off other hikers. Unlike my quiet CT start two summers ago, once moving along, I encountered many hikers. It turns out my hostee companion, Brandon, makes a pretty good hiking partner. We spent most of the day together. We made it all the way to Lake Mirena around 4:45PM. The camper area at Lake Mirena is quite bustling. There must be at least 15 of us around. And that was only my count before a long hot shower. Already there are so many hikers, easily accessible accommodations, and general good feelings. In every way drastically different from my CT hike. Brandon and I ate a giant cheese pizza and Modelo tall boys in paper bags for a first day celebratory supper. The whole twenty miles were a no water stretch. My feet and back are definitely aware of the water weight strain. Already tomorrow I want to send home the equivalent of 3 lbs of stuff to lighten my pack load. How quickly a stuff sack seems heavy…
Anyways, things are still a little loose on my end. I reveled in food and cleanliness instead of map review, so my system will likely take a few days to become a well oiled machine of hiking madness. Today the terrain and elevation profile were very forgiving. Tomorrow is a whole new game of all incline. I am too tired to write more. My mind finally letting go after the chaos of the last week’s prep.
Day: 2
Adventures Continue!
Day Two: 4 May 2015
Start: HM 20 mi
End: HM 41.47 mi Burnt Rancheria Campground in Mt Laguna
GPS Point: 32.89897 -114.45324
Day Total: 21.47 miles
Water at Boulder Oaks Campground, water at Burnt Rancheria campground

First rattle snake encounter! I was leading with Brandon and Shiva behind. I quickly jumped by before the snake was fully aware of my presence, while the guys had to go through bristled bushes since the snake was very agitated and rattling at every close encounter. Also a ton of lizards and my first blooming eucalyptus plant.

My hike is having a slow start. I am still organizing my pack. I have things to send home already, but I might have to wait until Big Bear Lake for a post office.
Still hiking along with Brandon. We keep pace fairly well. Also met a nice group of two older brothers from Milwaukee and Ft Worth who are accompanying to Warner Springs the one’s daughter, Corey, from Portland, who is hiking the full PCT. As well as a guy named Pete from FL, Glen from FL, Lucas “Shiva” from Canada, OMW (Old Man Walking) a 70 year old man who is hiking as a retirement gift. So many people! We are camped at Mt Laguna and there are at least 30 PCT’ers.
I have blisters already, but my legs are starting to pick up finally. Hips are sore. Also my First resupply! Barely made it to the PO in time. As of right now, I am ahead of schedule on mileage. Gave food away in anticipation of only three days to Warner Springs. Spent the evening with the group of campers around a fire. Evenings are cold. A local brought his dog and built the fire and provided s’more fixings. Such hospitality!
9pm already feels like a late night. Sleep for me.
Day: 3
Tolls of Day Three.
Day Three: 5 May 2015
Start: HM 41.4 mi
End: HM 63.8 Campsite near Chariot Canyon Rd
GPS Point: 33.012883, -116.527305
Day Total: 22.3 miles
Water at Mt Laguna campground, water at GART faucet trailhead 6 mi, water cache at Mason Valley Truck Trail
Fleeting sighting of a fox today! Ran right in front of me on the trail. Also, there are these cool looking horned lizards. And they hop, or jump rather. Three snakes but no rattlers again.
Met a nice Italian man, a guy who was near us at end of day who claimed he was having a terrible time and asked us if we were enjoying ourselves. From his start date, it sounded like this guy was doing 35+ mile days.
Today my feet and body were genuinely exhausted. Brandon and I decided to call camp with plans to start doing early mornings. Starting in 5 miles we have a 30 mile dry stretch. My achilles is tired and sore. I really look forward to sleep at night. There are several of us at the same camp site tonight. A couple in a tent who never came out, Boyardee and Mary, Taxi, and an older Japanese man.
Day: 4
My feet are finally begging for rest.

Day Four: 6 May 2015
Start: HM 63.8
End: HM 91.8 mi / 3rd gate water cache
GPS Point: 33.168451, -116.540106
Day Total: 28 miles
Water at Rodriguez tank
My feet are exhausted. Brandon and I pounded out 28 grueling miles so tomorrow we can reach Warner Springs and relax. We hiked with Taxi and had a long lunch with him. Met Dr. Dre, who rapped for us (his name is Andre), and Beowulf at the water source in the AM. Not many people today.
Taxi, Brandon and I met a trail angel at Scissors Crossing. She gave us fresh treats (date bars, corn bread, jolly ranchers, and brought us cold Pepsi and watermelon!). We had a long lunch then started the mad climb up what we had just descended to reach Scissors Crossing. Got to love the basin and range formations.
I slept terribly last night from the ceaseless wind. Tonight is also exposed and windy, but I staked my tarp low and lined the drop sheet with rocks. I have decided the vestibule/door part of my tarp is inferior. Both sides have extra material to open wider but are not long enough to stake low without leaving it loose and flapping. Since we are on a dirt site, I want little air flow to allow dirt to be swept up to cover me.
I saw a bunch of planes today! Helicopters, the big army looking ones, and double sideways propellor ones. So close to us!
Also saw the continuous entourage of lizards and rodents.
Day: 5
Warner Springs!
Day Five: 7 May 2015
Start: HM 91.8
End: HM 109.5 Warner Springs Resource Center
GPS Point: 33.273455, -116.644986
Day Total: 17.7 miles
Today was eye opening on what calories can do for the body. I haven’t felt hungry but today understood hunger. I almost ran out of food, literally walked into Warner Springs with no edibles in my pack. And it wasn’t that I was hungry, it was that my body felt empty, fuel on zero. Last night I had to eat every three miles just to keep going. Today I needed that but didn’t have the food. I am glad I cross towns frequently the next couple hundred miles. I need to reevaluate my calorie intake town stop to town stop.
Met group of five: Laura, Lyra, Sara, Trevor and another guy with a right calf tattoo. Sunflower (vibrant red haired mom out solo). NZ guy. Older couple we first met at water trough trailhead where poison oak started. Pete from Mt. Laguna day came in. And Taxi came in. Lots of others. Some took zeros at Warner. Molly red head chef. Renee, guy Taxi met. It is sort of unbelievable to imagine just how many people there are out on the PCT. I am not even starting among the main herd. And not just the amount of people, but also the number who stop at every town possible. No judgement, if you need rest then you need rest, but wow! This is day five, I can’t imagine wanting a break yet.
I did enjoy a warm shower with a towel! Brandon and I put our laundry in a long queue. There seems to be a major back up so we won’t get to leave until at least midday tomorrow. Rain clouds are coming in. Brandon and I went to PO for my resupply. I mailed home some odds and ends. Then Taxi, Brandon, and I went to store for resupplies and supplements. Found out the deli in the store makes burgers! So happy!! The Center closed at 4pm, so everyone sort of shuffles out and finds their tents. They had clothes to wear while stuff is in the laundry. I am sporting red sweat pants and a red and white striped top. The only sad part is that I don’t have my spare clothes for my pillow while I sleep. Socialized but went to bed early.