12/24/2016
Invercargill to Oban, Stewart Island – 17 miles and a ferry ride

Last night I booked my ferry ticket for this evening, so I knew I could sleep in and relax this morning. I showered again just because, and watched an Avengers cartoon while repacking. I ate breakfast in the hotel restaurant, waffles with fried bananas and bacon. I ran out of internet, but the hotel staff were very happy to look it up for. They checked the Invercargill to Bluff weather (still miserable) and Stewart Island (looking like a day or two of continued shattered showers). I was told that Stewart Island is lovely even in bad weather, ha!

Across the way from the hotel is a bike shop, Wensley’s Cycles. I bought replacement cleats for my bike shoes, and they changed them out for me. What a Christmas present! In better spirits I set out for the last jaunt down to Bluff to the ferry harbor.

I only had 17 miles to ride. The same woman who looked up weather yesterday told me it was for the best that I wouldn’t get to Bluff last night because it is always super windy there. She was too right. The weather report claimed 47 km per hour winds. I can easily agree. I had to grip my handlebars just to maintain control. The wind was at my right, trying to push me off the road at all times. They must have a lot of rain here, too, as all the ditches were dug at high angles down from the road for drainage channeling. A fall would have been brutal. Worse was when trucks would pass me. The ones driving towards me would create a wind vortex, temporarily sucking me backwards. The trucks passing me from behind would simultaneously pull me forward and push me sideways. Scarier but preferable. I was in no hurry, so slowly I made it to Bluff. Once I hit town, at the furthest bottom of South Island, the hill the town is situated beside caused the wind to turn around it, giving me a slight tail wind for the cruise along the wharf! Magnificent!

The ferry to Stewart Island is run by Stewart Island Experience. They have a very nice terminal in Bluff. I was able to secure a space for my bicycle on the voyage over, so no scrambling around to find a place in Bluff! I changed into warm clothes and headed to the Anchorage Cafe where I feasted like a ravenous pig, eating blue cod with a fresh veggie salad and fries, a pint of Speights beer, a lot of water, pavlova and ice cream covered in strawberries and cream, and hot tea. The rains picked up again, but I was snugly inside the cafe with wifi and comfort knowing I was not going back out into the weather.

There was a large crowd for the 5PM boat. I was surprised to see so many people. Especially knowing that the 11AM boat sold out. The winds were still blowing hard which many passengers did not appreciate. It was a tumultuous sea for the ride over. So many seasick people. I was in a mesmerized stupor the whole time, and inappropriately found the suffering people comical. The waves would turn up the boat and I would lose sight of the water on one side and lose the sky on the other. I have always had a special relationship with water. And like I was sitting at the alter of a water goddess, I felt so calm and happy that I almost cried. I was exhausted and didn’t feel it until being propelled across ocean waters with zero physical exertion required on my part whatsoever. I don’t know if I could have been happier at that moment.

Since arriving to Invercargill, the people have been real. I went into the grocery after arriving in Bluff, desperately needing allergy medicine. They had nothing at all. But a sweet woman shared her personal supply with me. Don’t worry, they are the individually wrapped foil pack kind with name and dosage printed on the back. Though honestly, I probably would have taken them anyways. A costumer had already asked if I was crying. My eyes were itching fiercely. Made worse by the debris blown in during the pedal over. Then at the boat building, I was adjusting my bicycle so the luggage man could more easily lift it down the stairs. He was waiting for luggage bins to fill up so they could be crane-lifted onto the boat. When he realized that I hadn’t made reservations yet he quickly grabbed one of the office phones and dialed the hostel for me so I could ask about a bed. He said it would be terrible to arrive with nowhere to go, even if I had a tent. The woman I talked to on the phone, Carol, was so understanding and friendly. She put me in a shared room that didn’t have any other guests for tonight. And they made a space in the shed to store my bike. They are even nice enough to let me keep it there for my hike and to store the gear I won’t take with me. What a friendly family!

12/23/2016
Milton to Invercargill – 102 miles

My host recommended that I take a detour to the next town. He said the highway was very hilly and not so nice. He thought timing would come out the same because the route was flatter and emptier. I had every intention of taking his advice, but then I reached the detour junction and realized that the town was maybe half the distance as his detour. Hill or no hills, that seemed like an easy choice. I took the highway and had some really lovely downhill cruisers, the ups not that strenuous. The selling point, though, is that clouds rolled in right as I reached Balclutha, 17 miles from the hostel, and I was inside drinking hot tea as a brief rain shower hit.

Today is slow moving. Constant rolling hills, which could be really nice except for the strong headwinds resisting all uphill motion and eliminating the joy of the downhill as I am instead fighting to stay upright from the slight angle of the wind. I fought for 19 more miles then stopped at a cafe in Clinton. I met a nice Canadian couple stopping in for lunch. They are doing a motorbike tour around South Island. Very friendly.

I got back on the road and barely kept up morale on the 26 miles to Gore, where I stopped for lunch at Table Talk Cafe. Let me tell you how low my spirits were. Leaving Clinton, the wind became stronger, the hills continued, the clouds continued to loom overhead, and I made a choice based on advice from the cafe that I should stay on Highway 1. I have no way to know whether I made a good decision. The road turned up, changing the direction I was battered on to my side, but still sufficiently from the front that it didn’t relax any of the resistance. I was pedaling on the downhills just to keep up momentum. On a big uphill, I clipped out a couple times in quick succession. Further investigation revealed that I had all but lost the whole ridge on my left cleat, the right cleat looking not far behind. Not the end of the world, but losing the ability to use quad power to pull the pedal up sucked.

The road turned slightly into several small and closely packed hills, temporarily diminishing the wind. On the far side was a straightaway. I thought maybe finally I would get a break! By then I had been riding quite awhile, feeling like based on time, I should have been passed half way. Then the trifecta… Just as I hit the straight, where the road turned bumpy and shitty, the winds slammed into my face, literally almost pausing my forward motion. I saw a sign for Gore revealing that I was barely half the distance. Then it started to rain. In an anguished scream at the weather gods, a sound only possibly from a person at the lowest point of desperation, I was ready to give up. Fortunately, or unfortunately, one cannot really just stop riding on a trip like this. It is not like I was going to stand around in the cold rain instead of ride through it. What would that have accomplished beyond extending my misery?

At the cafe I sat staring out the window for a long time like a crazed person. If the cafe had not closed, I likely would have sat longer. I knew I would keep going, no matter how bad things were while riding. I think that is why I have a high capacity for activities people find unappealing: hike all day every day for 2660 miles; run samples for two weeks straight, barely getting an hour of sleep each day; bike 100 miles through miserable weather. My answer continues to be “Yeah, sure.” It might suck while you do it, but are there repercussions? Usually not. Are there rewards? I think so. So as quickly as I stop doing that activity, things are immediately improved. Zero incentive to stop myself from doing it again.

I rode an additional 40 miles to Invercargill. What a stupid day. Clearly New Zealand did not get the memo that I am on holiday. The weather is supposed to be perfect. Or at least moderately pleasant. In Gore, at the Golden Age Tavern, a waitress checked the weather for me and it said 33 km per hour winds. I made it into the city at a snail’s pace, barely before dark. Both shoes coming unclipped at an annoyingly frequent rate, usually just on the steeper climbs. Pure misery. With the wind blowing, I had zero interest in setting up my tent, so I headed to a hostel. At 9:30PM on a Friday night, the hostel was locked up with a sign to call for late arrivals. In no mood to find a way to call someone and sit around waiting to then share a dorm, I went to the first hotel I saw. Kevin Hotel. And what a genuinely grand experience.

They were so friendly and accommodating. No one batted an eye at my filthy legs. They talked pleasantly of a hot shower and getting a good night’s rest. I was able to put my bike in a downstairs office to not bother taking it up to my room. The price was well under the cap I made in my head when I decided the convenience of a hotel was worth the money. I had a clean, private, and plush room all to myself up on the fifth floor, overlooking the city. I showered with soap, shampoo, and a rag to finally scrub off the layered-on sunscreen. I sat surrounded by pillows on the giant fluffy bed in my pajamas with my hair wrapped up in a terry cloth towel watching Zoolander 2 while eating snicker bars, banana chips, and free milk from the dairy fridge. I dumped out all my meager possessions just because I could, and so they could air out after two days of rain. I even had wifi! I could not have asked for a better setup. The only damper on the moment was the discovery that my pelvic bones are more than bruised, there is a new development of chaffing from riding in wet shorts for two days. Great timing to be done riding for a bit.

12/22/2016
Herbert to Milton – 94 miles

I slept so well last night! Not a hard sleep, just rejuvenating. It looked like clouds were stirring this morning so I didn’t waste time hitting the road. I rode 31 miles to Waikouaiti where I stopped for coffee and a scone. My bum appreciates the breaks I have been taking every two hours, especially when it involves a soft padded chair. It also helps break up the day. Let’s me aim for shorter 20-30 mile segments instead of thinking about the whole day’s distance. The highway is easy to follow so I only pull out the map during breaks to make sure I am not dallying too slowly. Waikouaiti was my goal for last night. Had I made more miles the first day, I think I definitely would have made it.

What a brutal day so far. That big climb turned out to be a series of increasing climbs, 25 miles of them. Then, at the top of the last climb, when I was just handful of miles away, I saw a sign depicting that the road was closed to bicycles. I just rode up a beastly climb (not Gibraltar Road beastly but arduous all the same) and then was directed to a side road for the descent. Any cyclist will tell you that pedaling your ass off to get to the top of a hill is worth it because of the victorious downhill on the other side, where you just need to hold on for dear life and let gravity bring you down. Instead, I was siphoned off on a 3 mile downhill gravel road. Joy. It was very pleasant once I finally hit the pavement. Very few cars overall. Though I cannot help thinking about this climb for my return trip. What a dreadful day that will be.

Despite my bickering about topography, today has hands down been the most beautiful. All morning had the cool calmness that rain clouds have a way of causing. I rode up on a sleepy lake with black swans and a single white swan. So lovely. Then I immediately encountered the coast and actually rode along the wave crashing bluffs for awhile. Following my morning break is when the hills started up, but the views were stunning. So much green! Maybe I am easily impressed right now, I mean I did just return from the desolate Antarctic mountains, but the rolling hills and trees swaying in the wind. I have loved every view today. And the sheep have been particularly entertaining. They don’t even look up for a noisy semi truck, but my riding by has the power to send them running. I have been amusing myself With whistling and singing out once I am close to a flock of sheep on alert. They do not find it funny. My new goal is to get a whole mob of sheep running for their lives.

I spoke too soon about Dunedin. Officially my least favorite place so far. On top of a long rain delay, the highway turns into a motorway heading south out of town. Instead of 8 miles along the motorway, I had to turn back into the city and take a ridiculous path that involved a winding 12 miles with three unnecessary big climbs in the pouring rain on roads with minimal shoulders. I should have grabbed fast food and hit the road right away. After about two hours in the rain, I stubbornly just kept moving.

I did see an incredible sight this afternoon, a herd of one hundred or more deer! No exaggeration . I have never seen so many deer in one place. They were just helping themselves to the grassy grove in a field of grain. It was crazy. I also have a new success on the startling of farm animals. I coerced a tiny horse to run along with me for the whole duration of its field, maybe 300 meters long. I was so delighted!

In total I rode another 38 miles to Milton. I was pretty over cycling when I arrived there. My feet had been cold and wet for hours, the air felt cold because my bike shorts were still mostly wet, and then the sun finally decided to come out again just in time to start setting. I needed a morale booster and supper was the ticket. I ate a huge meal of pork belly, mash potatoes, roasted vegetables, red cabbage salad, and chocolate cake with cream and ice cream at the Fork n the Road restaurant. Yes, that brought me back to happiness. I am 16 miles short of my intended mileage, but it was late and I was ready to stop moving. I am staying at the Happy Inn Backpackers. It is a quiet hostel with a cheap, warm bed and shower. Somewhere dry to hang my clothes. It is just what I needed. And the owner is a friendly German-Swiss man who taught me to juggle. Seriously, I had three bean bags up to 8 or 9 turn-overs before losing a bag. I feel like I need to expand this skill. I am now on the lookout for a set of six bean bags. A career at the carnival may be in my future yet!

12/21/2016
Ashburton to Herbert – 115 miles

Today felt long. I am glad to be snuggled down for bed right now. I had a better start time today, though I am thinking maybe I should hit the road earlier to avoid late afternoon. The is the side of me that’s burned and the heat really feels brutal without shade.

To keep my panniers as light as possible, I am not really carrying any food. I have a bunch of snicker bars and banana chips for snacking. I have been buying breakfast from the grocery the night before. Then lunch and supper are eating out. I feel like this is the optimal way to make sure I am appropriately fed as measured by quality and healthiness over quantity.

I rode a solid 42 miles before stopping to lunch at Bernie’s Bakery HQ in Timaru. Late afternoon I stopped at the lone cafe marking the turn onto SH82 off from SH1 leading to Waimate. Unfortunately their water tank has just broken, so I settled on a cold ginger beer then set back out.

The views been quite pleasant today. I saw the ocean a few hundred meters from the road. The was the closest the road came, but I caught views off and on all day. Beautiful. And peaceful. I had light head winds all day, so I am blaming that for moving so slowly today. Though I am also fighting through some major saddle soreness. I could see the mountains all day! This was a great thing, but briefly around Temuka and continuously passed Oamaru those beautiful mountains turned into a lot of ups and downs. The owner from last night’s campground told me the way was flat until just before Dunedin, so I am definitely not looking forward to hills for tomorrow.

Sights also included lots of farms, sheep, tiny horses, cows, llamas, and, strangely, an abundance of broken bungee cords on the side of the road. Very little roadside litter, but I consistently see broken bungee cables in addition to dead birds and squished (quilled rodent). I saw a sign for wallabies, but I am not I will see any.

After my cold drink break, I rode 31 miles to Oamaru, the steampunk capital in New Zealand, and supped at Cucina Restaurant & Bar. Very high class. I picked the place because I could watch my bike through the window. Fortunately 6pm is somewhat early for the supper crowd so they didn’t scoff at my sunblock glistening legs covered in spattered bugs. I had a lovely meal, but it felt a bit dainty, so I stopped by the grocery and scarfed down a pint of Tip Top’s brand “Saucy Caramel.” Just what my sweet tooth wanted!

I contemplated staying in Oamaru, but my map app led me to think if I got those last 16 miles in, I would be perfectly set up for a 90 mile day tomorrow. Having looked at the numbers in actuality, I am 151 miles from the desired stop. Instead I am going to stop sooner. There is supposed to be a gnarly climb tomorrow! Anyway, I rode 16 miles more to Herbert Forest Camping Ground in the tiny town of Herbert. $12.50 NZD provided me a completely empty upper campground (I missed the main camp somehow), a hot shower (though brilliantly I left my shampoo in the shower last night), and a kitchen. I even plugged my phone in for a charge. New Zealand is incredibly camp friendly!

12/20/2016
Christchurch to Ashburton – 58 miles

Yesterday we arrived safely at Christchurch in the LC130. Demian and I collected our bags and headed for the hotel. They booked us at the Sudima Hotel, across the street from the CDC. Perfect distance! I think I literally slept most of the 8 hour flight back to New Zealand. LC130’s are loud and our flight was full. So piled in like sardines, shoulder-to-shoulder and knees-across-knees, I tried my best curl up on my mesh space and slept hard. Despite that nap, I was feeling pretty worn out still. At the hotel, I emptied my bags on the floor, changed into a dress, and watched movies while I attempted to pack and sort out my bike trip items. When I could no longer hold off hunger, I went and found Demian. We walked over to Little India for supper. I stopped at the grocery to buy razors, a pint of ice cream, and snacks for my trip. My legs haven’t seen daylight or a shave for over two months now. It was time. Anyways, this morning I had ambitions for an early start on my cycling trip. Instead I arrived at the CDC to drop off my bags and received the message that travel needed to see me. They needed to push my flights a day later and then actually book them. I sat waiting until just after 1PM. So much for a strong first day. I road straight through all afternoon until stopping for supper at Robbie’s Bar & Bistro in Ashburton. I looked at my distances and decided to stop for the day at Tinwald Camping Ground in Ashburton. It is a lovely place, and the owner is quite friendly and encouraging about my trip. For $16 NZD I have a camp site, shower, outlets, and TV room. After a quick shower I retired to the TV room where I am watching National Treasure with Nicholas Cage and charging my battery. My goal is to sleep early and hit the road early tomorrow. Day one done. My pelvis feels bruised, my quads are tight, my hands are still numb, and in my typical style, I am sunburned. About 300 miles to go!