Day eight (mile 2598.4-2625.3)

Day Eight
4 September 2016
Mile 2598.4-2625.3
Day total 26.9
Tally 163.7 miles
Total up/down: +5159/-4882ft
Camp: below Tamarack Peak
LL: 48.776890, -120.721379

We had trail magic today!! A PCT’er from this year, Walking Home, or Richard, had to get off in Northern California for an injury. He is from around here, so brought the best foods to deal out a little magic. I ate hot split pea soup, two turkey and salad wraps, strawberries, and marionberry jam on bread. The most welcome of surprises! And our last opportunity for trail magic.

Today has been our longest day; not by much, but true nonetheless. It was a formidable day as well. We climbed six different passes: Methow, Glacier, Grasshopper, Harts, Buffalo, and Windy Passes. About 3500 feet of the 5200 total feet all before lunch. All morning we hiked along a narrow patch of sun with visible rain to either side of us. Leaving lunch we had cold rainy spittle that turned into freezing grapple for the last three miles to Harts Pass. Walking Home was positioned at Harts Pass. I am so thankful for his kindness! My legs were definitely tired today. But mostly I think it was the cold that wore me out. I will sleep well tonight.

Tonight will be just as cold as last night. Icy tents by morning. We are all huddled in our fart sacks. Endless reading another Jack London short. Tomorrow we will arrive at the monument. Everything is coming to a close so quickly.

Day seven (mile 2574.3-2598.4)

Day Seven
3 September 2016
Mile 2574.3-2598.4
Day total 24.1
Tally 136.8 miles
Total up/down: +6815/-2674ft
Camp: camp below Methow Pass
LL: 48.585618, -120.720115

Today we crushed the trail. Last night was the first really cold night so I woke up to pee several times. But I felt good. My feet are feeling the beating of being weighed down with a pack (even light as it is) and my back is finally rubbing raw from my pack, but my legs feel great. I would say we averaged 3 miles per hour all day. Granted it was cold all morning and rained on us for 5 miles up a 2000 foot climb after lunch, so we weren’t dilly dallying around or anything. And we scored a local Washington IPL beer from some trail magic! Tami and I split it at lunch, where we stopped at the Rainy Pass trailhead. The sun came out and it was glorious. Two PCTA people were fixing a sign and two Forest Service people were checking the trailhead garbage and bathrooms. All of them were incredibly friendly and encouraging. The permit register showed eight Canada goers through this morning, and at least six from yesterday. We may run into a bubble for the end. We ran into Easy several times, and I hope we see him at the monument. He is hilarious. Anyways, we arrived to our campsite just after 5PM, despite the weather and 6800 feet of climbing, including two passes. The sun was finally out temporarily as we put up tents and the temperature dropped to freezing. Tonight is extremely cold!

Day six (mile 2564.3-2574.3)

Day Six
2 September 2016
Mile 2564.3-2574.3
Day total 10
Tally 112.7 miles
Total up/down: +1950/-2056ft
Camp: Bridge Creek Camp
LL: 48.429472, -120.868353

A couple days ago we were told by a thru-hiker that there is this town named Stehekin before the border that has the best bakery. This is the sort of thing that eats away at me as a now section hiker. Of course we know about Stehekin, the last town stop before finishing the trail. I asked him if he had been there, thinking he would know if there would be cookies, my favorite food group. He response was that he has not been there before. Who gives former PCT thru hikers such ridiculous advice as if we wouldn’t know just as much as a current hiker? He was treating us like weekenders, as if we were strangers to the PCT thru world. It was saddening. Today we had a quick 5 miles into Stehekin from High Bridge Ranger Station, mile 2569.4. The advice from that hiker unneeded, all of us sent our packages to Stehekin.

Stehekin is great! There is a bus that picks up people from High Bridge Ranger Station and takes them to town. A bonus perk is that the bus stops at the bakery halfway between. The bus driver gives you about ten minutes to quickly buy baked goods. This is an amazing perk to the $7 ride, except this is actually a mental game. You walk in, smell the tantalizing baked goods, see that they offer everything from quiche and pizza to sticky buns to cookies to coffee to ice cream. They have the bus stops down to a tee, quickly grabbing items and cashing you out with a well-practiced efficiency. I frantically told them a few items then saw the day olds by the check out and bought about $20 worth of their delectable sugar and fat options. We spent the majority of the day in Stehekin. There was about an hour of torrential downpour followed by consistent drizzle the rest of the afternoon. We hiked out in drizzle and arrived to the campsite in quiet, post rain cold.

Last night we increased to five, with the addition of Juban, a PCT thru-hiker whom S+M inticed to our company. Tonight we are down to three. Juban stayed in Stehekin and S+M has headed home. She was feeling ill and yesterday dealt with a knee problem. With all the exciting things coming up in her near future, she had to think about what her priorities are right now. We have just over 100 miles together now, and about 80 to go. I am sad she left, but extremely happy we spent the last six days together. I cannot wait to continue reuniting with her for future adventures!

Day five (mile 2540.7-2564.3)

Day Five
1 September 2016
Mile 2540.7-2564.3
Day total 23.6
Tally 102.7 miles
Total up/down: +4947/-5553ft
Camp: site at large creek with foot log
LL: 48.344311, -120.902712

Today was cold and rainy. I didn’t actually bring a rain jacket. I don’t really know why. This is Washington. It rains here. That is what Washington is all about. It hasn’t been a problem, but the rest of the trail is supposed to be rainy and cold. It might be miserable, but there are only a few more days. I am pumped to walk across that border and bring an official close to this trail.

We arrived at camp super early and I am cold and wet. We met a really nice 63 year old man. He is a PCT hiker named Easy. He hiked on because he didn’t see the water trickling in the stream about a half mile back. He is from Indiana, has a distinct gentlemanly accent, and has the the sense of humor. I hope we run into him again.

Day four (mile 2518.8-2540.7)

Day Four
31 August 2016
Mile 2518.8-2540.7
Day total 21.9
Tally 79.1 miles
Total up/down: +5765/-8114ft
Camp: near Image Lake Trail
LL: 48.196496, -121.044992

Despite feeling completely at home out here, there are subtle things that feel weird. When we meet people we are section hikers, not thru hikers. Today a girl said she knew we were thru hikers because of my “hello kitty backpack,” referring to my ultralight setup. It felt really good, but also felt weird. This class is not my class. I do not feel apart of their summer. I feel like a normal hiker just passing through while these other hikers are coming to the end of their journeys. I too am coming to the end of my journey, but it is one for completion and not the close of a killer hike. It is a strange feeling.

One thing I have particularly been happy about is the warm nights. Mornings have been brisk, but I am super toasty at night. I am reminded how much I don’t like to put my tent up. As one of the few daily chores I have, I remember why I prefer to cowboy camp. But this is Washington, so it is not smart to risk falling asleep without cover…though we did cowboy two nights ago.

Day three (mile 2495.7 – 2518.8)

Day Three
30 August 2016
Mile 2495.7-2518.8
Day total 23.1
Tally 57.2 miles
Total up/down: +6856/-6671ft
Camp: 1/2 mile past Mica Lake
LL: 48.167563, -121.155024

My body is screaming. I have not worked out in months. I have been eating junk food, drinking coffee, and steadily gaining weight as my scrawny muscles turn to mush. Now my weak baby feet are getting blisters, my thighs are bloody from chafing, my shoulders and knees are tight and bruised, and my low back sometimes siezes in pain. I feel like a poser trying to claim this PCT finale, as I shuffle into camp as a bundle of aches. Every time I stand up after a break I have to shake the life back into my legs. I am definitely not in thru-hiker condition right now. But I love this. I wake up each day excited to get on trail, ready for the beating. I cannot imagine a better way to spend my short break from school.

We have decided to stick with 20-25 mile days so we don’t keel over in piles of misery. Endless of course is fine, having 3000+ miles under his feet this summer. For the rest of us, we have been plushly living in our off-trail lives. We are strategically headed to Stehekin, to catch the bus times just right to get in and out in the same day. S+M has a stricter finish then the rest of us, so we are trying to travel the appropriate distances to get her back in time.

One thing I have been thinking about the last few days is a special hiker dress. I need to have people donate old running tech shirts so I have enough material. I hiked most of the PCT in a lively Target clearance special. It was made of rayon and stayed surprisingly classy. At least until it started to disintegrate with my whole backside exposed and my deteriorating unders on full display, despite my nightly efforts to patch the tears. I retired that dress to my growing pile of clothes for another memory quilt, and replaced it with a new dress. I am hiking now with that same dress. I have only positive things to say about hiking in dresses. Anyways, I want to design a dress based on my favorite features from all those dress experiences.

PCT reunion hike day two (mile 2471.3-2495.7)

Day Two
29 August 2016
Mile 2471.3-2495.7
Day total 24.4
Tally 34.1 miles
Total up/down: +6393/-5564ft
Camp: Glacier Peak Wilderness
LL: 47.996623, -121.121417

I realized today how much I have been holding onto these last 200 miles. I put my life on hold, waiting to think about what adventure I will do next. Today my brain has been flooded with all these ideas of what to do while in grad school. School is my priority, so I am at peace with the fact that I won’t be hiking a long trail in the next few years. But that doesn’t mean I am prevented from adventuring. I need to find ventures that can be crammed into one or two weeks.

I am thinking that next summer I want to drive up to Washington to climb Mount Adams and to Oregon to climb Mount Hood. Then I will slowly work my way back to SB while climbing all the major peaks in between. I have been thinking a long time on climbing each state’s highest peak. I have a few in the books, but I think it’s time to start bagging some more. I am also thinking I could drive back to CO to finish up the fourteeners the summer after that. This summer the record for self-supported and all human-powered climbing of 57 fourteeners was completed in 31 days 8 hours by Joe Grant. This is an incredible feat, and equally inspiring, to get out there myself. I also really want to hike other trails like the CDT, TA in New Zealand, Heyduke, and AZT. I also want to cycle from Washington to Florida. This fall I will spend a couple months in Antarctica, doing top secret geology things. I am super excited! After getting off the ice, I plan to spend about two weeks cycling across New Zealand. All of these ambitions require me to get my ass into gear. No more laziness or crappy food. Hopefully the lure for adventure will keep my motivation going strong! And of course, you can stay tuned here to follow along!

I am too tired to write more. Sorry.

Back to trail (mile 2461.6-2471.3)

Day One
28 August 2016
Mile 2461.6-2471.3
Day total 9.7 miles
Tally 9.7 miles
Total up/down: +1954/-1860ft
Campsite: Lake Janus
LL: 47.825071, -121.099114

Endless is reading us a bedtime story; Mauki by Jack London. We are tucked into our fart sacks for the night. Our ultralight gear slightly different, but mostly the same. The people are Endless P. Summer, S+M, and Tim Tam. This is all too familiar. The reality of the trail not quite tangible. Everything from the last year completely wiped away. It could be August 2015 all over again. Where has the last year gone? Being here, together again on the PCT, things make sense. I have missed this. The last twelve months have felt like the life of a stranger. Today felt like coming home.

To catch you up, I will give some back story. In May 2015 I stood at the southern terminus of the Pacific Crest Trail, or PCT. I hiked anout 2461 miles before the horrible fires in northern Washington forced an end to the trail, just 200 miles shy of the Canadian border. I went to the northern Terminus with my trail companions at that time, but it didn’t feel real. To be honest, I am not sure it would have felt real even if we had hiked to the end. Regardless, I have felt a longing to return and cover that final gap.

In the mean time, I moved to Southern California for grad school. I went from a comfortable salary in the oil and gas industry to borderline poverty on a grad salary (I am still elated to have made that change!). I had a rough start with school, and am still transitioning to a new project and advisor. I don’t think I was quite ready to go from the outdoors and personal freedom on the trail, to 15+ hour days at a desk. I understood the physical and mental endurance of thru-hiking. I woke up every day excited. Every day seemingly the same yet actually new and exhilarating. I was addicted to the challenge. I was not prepared for the mental and psychological warping of grad school. I felt stretched in thirty directions, expected to excel at everything, and spend all my time on research with no thought to anything else. At first I took solace in working out. 7 miles of bike commuting each day, alternating long swims and long runs, climbing in the evenings, and hiking on the weekends. The true embodiment of a weekend warrior. When school hit the fan, exercise completely ceased and my lifestyle took on fast food and late nights on coffee. I am slowly putting myself back together. It has been a slow process. The biggest move towards sanity has been knowing I was returning to the trail. My life for the next four years is grad school, but I live for the moments of adventure. I live for putting ideas into motion.

That brings us back to the PCT. About one year after stepping off the trail, I am back to finish the last stretch to Canada. Two days ago I flew into Seattle. I met up with Endless, my hiking companion of over 1700 miles last summer. You can check him out on Instagram @endlesspsummer or his blog at establishinganewbaseline.wordpress.com. He hiked the AT and CT, as well as several hundred miles on the PCT this summer before joining us. He is a formidable hiker and great trail presence, providing us with unlimited entertainment. S+M joined us Saturday night. We caught up for supper at a great ramen restaurant, Kizuki Ramen and Izakaya, with her friend Gen Ma. S+M is an amazing artist and now a skilled electrician, as well as the happiest person I know. She is also my idol, so I have nothing but great things to say about her. In December she leaves for a PeaceCorps position in Guinea, which is incredibly exciting because my sister will be starting her PC position in Guinea at the same time! Stay tuned for upcoming adventures to the west coast of Africa! She can be followed on Instagram @katehendricksonart. This morning we were joined by Tim Tam, or Tim Tam Slam, otherwise know as Tami from last summer’s accounts. She might have the coolest work life, working for Clif Bar and Outward Bound. I can definitely see myself wanting to be like her when I grow up and venture back into adult life. She has a great blog at tamiankeny.wordpress.com and on Instagram @tamiankeny. She has an eloquent way of putting into words the experiences I also grappled with. It felt right to be surrounded by these incredible people. Tim Tam drove up from Portland and then the four of us drove to Baring to gather ourselves at the Dinsmores before hitting the trail. The Dinsmores are these incredible people who open their home to hikers as they pass through on the PCT. In trail lingo they are called trail angels. They have a garage bunkhouse, dedicated hiker box, big lush lawn, and shower setup for hikers to stop in and stay the night before heading back out on trail. Of their many generosities, they also accept and store hiker resupply packages. Since the SBA TSA doesn’t allow trekking poles in carry-on bags, I mailed my poles and food to the Dinsmores.

So here we are. Ten miles into the trail. I stayed up too late to spin off this first post. But I have been thinking about the trail for so long. I am happy to be here.

PCT back in action!

I am ecstatic to say that I will be reuniting with my PCT trail family at the end of this month to finish the last 200 miles of trail that were closed last summer due to fires. I have been giddy with anticipation, so all my excitement has bubbled up as word vomit!

Brief recap of my past year:
I moved to California. I miss Colorado, but have been enjoying the beach life! Grad school fills 99% of my time. With the other 1% I do exciting things like sleep, eat, and explore southern California.

Recently I ventured back into the Sierras to the Rae Lakes and 60 Lakes Basin areas. Obviously, I am now pumped for getting back on trail. The one unfortunate aspect of grad school is that my exercise habits have been tossed aside for vending machine meals and late night coffee benders. My crew is setting an admirable pace of 25 mile days, so we will see how my body holds up. No time like the present to get back into shape! Anyways, I am packing my food boxes tonight to ship off tomorrow. And by the end of next week I will be standing in Seattle, making final preparations before hitting the trail. The plan is to meet up with my hiking companions in Seattle and then ride out to Skykomish together. We will take the trail running and zoom up to Canada. This will be my last summer jaunt through the woods before cracking down on some research goals and preparations for my new adventure to Antarctica this fall. I cannot wait to see my trail family and be back outside! My brain and body need a vacation from laboratory life.

This is all you get until I cover some ground. Stay tuned!

Post Hike Reflection

Kansas was a nice start. I had instant sensory overload despite the humble surroundings that location entailed. Access to too many distractions with lots to do. After a day of movie binging, I borrowed my dad’s trimmers and finally buzzed off the leg sweaters I have been growing for two months. I only shaved one time during the whole trip, in South Lake Tahoe. It was way overdue. Other than that I am having a hard time adjusting from a lifestyle of few decisions and responsibilities beyond food, hiking, and sleep, to a deluge of tasks pushed onto me. From posting the last trail photos, sorting four months of mail, finally dealing with four months of emails, researching life in California, and making a To Do list, I was overwhelmed. I cannot even think about the daunting task of photo work once I have my camera back, which is soon to be in the mail! Thanks Jen! I also have to focus on my food intake. Make sure I am eating appropriate quantities to my current exercise levels (that is to say no exercise…for now) and eating super healthy and low fat (not that junk food sounds at all appealing thankfully!). Having not cooked or baked in several months, my motivation started out low for wanting to even think about food that wasn’t instantly gratifying and accessible. I went from a very simple routine to one of many tasks. Sort things, go through boxes, make appointments and remember them, do things, meet up with people. I know it is only a matter of time, but my multitasking skills are low right now. I want to slowly ease myself into the mental stimulation of non trail life.

There are other challenges too. Non trail people. It is exhausting trying to answer all these questions about my trip. It’s not like I can just sum up four months of something so unique in a short three sentence overview. The end of the trail hasn’t quite fully set in either. I am partly in denial and somewhat unsure how to be around people. On the flight coming home, this girl next to me exclaimed that she thought she was seeing smoke that looked like it came from a fire. My response was that a lot of Washington is on fire currently. That was all I knew how to say without being roped into a conversation that I didn’t want to have. Can I just have some quiet solitude to reflect, absorb, and organize my brain?
I have regained some personal skills and survived the exposure to many people at a wedding I attended. Congrats Kristin and Travis! But the whole thing exhausted my energy reserves for human interaction. Which was nice timing because I then spent two days really focused on sorting through boxes and purging stuff to make a single car load to California. A daunting and not so simple task while my vehicle was sitting at a body shop away from my packing grasp. Packing took place up to the last moments before I hit the road, as per my usual, er um, timeliness. Somehow I squeezed everything in without ditching much more than I had already purged pre PCT. Go me! And I still managed to leave a space for my sister for our road trip!
I had a last minute surprise when Endless stopped in Colby at the Oasis truck stop on his grand hitchhiking adventure across the U.S. We unfortunately only had a short visit before I needed to start driving towards Colorado and he needed to get back at finding hitches. For the Endless fans out there, he made it safely to KC before flying the rest of the way home. He is currently off on numerous other adventures around the east coast.
I spent several days in Colorado tying up loose ends. My sister flew in and several of us hiked a 14er, Mount Sherman in the Colorado Mosquito Range, at 14,043 feet. My last 14er as a CO resident. I am glad I was able to have one last hike. I also took my first post-hike trail run up to Mallory Cave from Mesa and NCAR Trails. My legs felt great afterwards but had a slow start. After all the last minute prep and route investigations, my sister and I took off from Boulder for a grand road trip tour towards Santa Barbara.
We started through Estes into Rocky Mountain National Park, taking the scenic route through to the west side. Hopped onto I-70 and cruised towards Gypsum, our first night of camping.The next day we hit up Grand Junction, CO, before heading around the Colorado National Monument. So cool! Wish I had know about that place sooner! We made it into Utah and saw the beautiful Goblin Valley National Park en route to Capitol Reef National Park. We stopped for a few short hikes and sights. The views were stunning in the evening setting sun. We stopped at a gas station to try out my culinary skills, or lack there of. Apparently not cooking for four months has truly messed up my cooking logic. We ate runny Mac ’n Peazy with a slight plastic taste. Overall, pretty unappetizing. My amazing sister kept up a good show at swallowing down the disaster I had prepared. Sorry sis! On day three, we took a Devil’s Backbone detour while heading through Grand Staircase-Escalante National Park. How incredible! Then into Bryce Canyon National Park with several small trail excursions. While leaving, we stopped at Thunderbird Cafe for “Ho-made Pie.” Whatever that means… A quick pie-induced lack of attention lead us on a short 30 mile detour, whoops! Then we caught Zion National Park for another stunning sunset scenery viewing. How colorful rock formations look so much more impressive when mixed with long, golden rays of the setting sun. I was particularly blown away by the Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel. Built in the 1920-30’s, it is 1.1 miles long, creating direct access to Zion from Bryce. Convenient and a feat of its time. Wow! The NP doesn’t allow personal vehicles on the scenic drive, so we took the bus up the valley. Had a nice walk towards the Narrows. We are already planning a big hike through these parks. I really want to do the Hayduke Trail, but maybe we could just catch a shorter portion together. It was dark as we came out of the valley, and we were chatting too much to realize we had missed our bus stop. Whoops #2! We walked the mile plus back to our vehicle, along a narrow two lane road, in the dark… Night three of setting up camp in the dark. The next day we went through Sand Hollow State Park, Red Cliffs National Conservation Area, Snow Canyon State Park, Valley of Fire State Park, Lake Mead National Recreation Area, and Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. We stopped for a long lunch with my friend Kait in Las Vegas. She generously let us shower before heading out. Good thing too, the next two days were hot and sticky! Day five was spent sweating through Death Valley National Park. So many cool places! I have been here before, but not during the season where signs are posted advising NO hiking during the month of September and all the dangers associated with heat. Fun times! We made the obligatory stop at Badwater Basin, the lowest point in North America. At 282 feet below sea level, Death Valley was already at 98 degrees by 8 AM that morning. It definitely earns its name. A road trip wouldn’t be a road trip without our last off-roading trip to Leadville Ghost Town via the Titus Canyon Road. Quite the fun roller coaster with my Escape fully loaded down… We at least didn’t try to brave the drive out to the Racetrack Playa Hahaha! Leaving Death Valley, we went right across Walker Pass! I stopped and reminisced my PCT days. How long ago that seems, heading into the Sierras. Almost a different life. We continued on for Bakersfield. As per local custom, we turned that stop into a glutton-fest. Huge supper followed by a candy shop with a whole double-sided menu of all the ice cream desserts they were capable of. It was too much. That stop set us into a quickly impeding food coma. Which worked out perfectly. The next day, the last day of our road trip, we wandered through Los Padres National Forest and into Santa Barbara/Goleta. My new home.
We spent the rest of the weekend unpacking, spending the last of my nonexistent cash reserve to outfit my new life. What a surreal last six months. A lot has happened. I will need time to process everything that was and is now. My sister and I had one last hurrah as we drove Hwy 1 up the coast to return her to Berkeley. Taking in the mesmerizing views of the mighty Pacific. The one thing I know will be a highlight of my life in California. The never-ending mystery of water and the ocean. A sanctuary in itself. I drove back via Hwy 101 and finished some furniture building and organizing. School starts next week. This weekend I go to Channel Islands with some geology grads and faculty for some pre-quarter bonding. Jumping right in with both feet.
Our road trip map can be found at:
Click Here for Map!